On November 13th, we delayed our departure from Jekyll Island until 9AM when the temperature was three degrees higher than the dew point, thinking that would mean the fog had lifted along our route as it had at our dock. The AICW route through St Andrews Sound took us almost out to sea. Visibility was about 0.5 mile. Apparently, the dew point and temperature in the ocean were still within three degrees. John and I both heard an unusual noise ahead and looked at each other wondering what it was. About five minutes later we heard a blaring HAAAAAUUUUOOONNNNNNK! and found ourselves heading for a large barge whose captain was not deviating from his course to avoid us – as if he could! John remained calm and steered us to safety. Then, he peeled me off of the bimini. Once my heart rate got below 200 bpm I got back to spotting channel markers.
Soon, the fog lifted and we relished the beauty of Cumberland Island. Dolphin swam alongs our port side, leaping in the waves. As we approached Kings Bay, GA where the U.S. Navy has a submarine base, we decided to bypass St Marys, GA and go straight to Fernandina Beach, FL. Fernandina Beach is not far from St Marys and is just across the Florida border. Psychologically, that day we felt the need to say we were finally in Florida! We have heard wonderful things about St Marys and how friendly the people there are to cruisers. Perhaps we will stop there on our way home.
Our fellow cruisers had told us what a lovely city Fernandina Beach is, so my hopes and expectations were high. As we crossed Cumberland Sound and the Florida state line we could feel our excitement building. We turned into the Amelia River with visions of more quaint shops and fabulous restaurants. What we saw was industrial sites and more paper mills, not what I would call breathtaking scenery. Surely we were in the wrong place. And then we reached the Fernandina Beach Marina and found the wonderful city we expected.
We enjoyed Thursday and Friday (13-14 November) in Fernandina Beach. The theme of our stay was outer space. On the first evening, the moon was full. We stopped at an Irish Pub for early sustenance. At 5PM we took a taxi across Amelia Island to the beach to watch the moon rise over the ocean at 5:40PM. As we walked along the beach watching the moon emerge from the vast ocean, we felt like we were totally removed from civilization. Hearing the waves crash on the beach, feeling the breeze off the ocean on our faces, seeing the giant glow of the moon rising up out of the water awakened our spirits and made us feel connected to the universe and at peace. After about an hour, we decided it was time to rejoin civilization and took a taxi to the Crab Shack for a round of gator tails. I thought they tasted like chicken.
On Friday evening, we dined at Espana (on Fourth Street), a Portuguese and Spanish- style tapas restaurant. My vocabulary is failing me for the words to accurately describe how incredibly delicious the food was. We finished the meal by sharing a serving of Tiramisu – ecstasy in a glass! I’m still thinking about it. And, when I say “sharing”, I use the term loosely. That was our original intent. It is possible that I had more than my share.
We walked back to the boat by 7:15PM and tuned our laptop into the NASA channel to watch the Space Shuttle launch countdown coverage. We set up the laptop in the cockpit so we could see the shuttle lift off, and then look into the night sky to watch it soar by. John spotted the glow in the clouds first. The clouds parted and the Space Shuttle raced like a giant roman candle across the horizon. Spectacular! It was the first time I had seen the shuttle take off. What a thrill!
We relived the moment with others on the dock for a few minutes, and then went below to prepare for moving on toward St Augustine on Saturday.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Brunswick and Jekyll Island
On November 10 we moved the boat about eight miles from the Golden Isles Marina to the Brunswick Landing Marina. We wanted to celebrate the 233rd Marine Corps birthday by dining at the Cargo Portside Grill, the #8 restaurant in Georgia. It was a fine idea, except that the restaurant is closed on Mondays. Consequently, we celebrated at Fox Pizza. Our server, Lynda, has a son-in-law in the Marine Corps. She showed us pictures and bought us a round of Blue Moons with orange slices. While it was not the evening we planned, it may have been even better.
We rode our bikes around Brunswick. Like New Bern, NC and Georgetown, SC, Brunswick has a paper/pulp mill. Again, the wind was blowing just right so we could not forget the mill. The locals say it smells like money. Money would not be the word I would choose. We rode through the historic downtown and enjoyed the quaint shops and old buildings. Later we rode a few miles outside of downtown to the West Marine store. When we found the West Marine, we could see the Golden Isles Marina. We realized we could have ridden our bikes into Brunswick easily instead of moving the boat. The Brunswick Landing Marina was worth the visit, though. They had lovely laundry facilities and offered them free of charge. Amazing!
On Veterans’ Day we moved the boat another short distance to the Jekyll Island Marina. We arrived by 9:00AM and had the rest of the day to see the island. We found our friends on Toucan and Solveig II already here. We docked beside Carol and her husband on Traumeri who are from Fairfield Harbor in New Bern, NC. Wayne and Lindell on Solveig II gave us several pictures they had taken of us underway and when they were aboard with us in Bucksport. How thoughtful! Gary and Lillian on Toucan invited us to join them and their friends from Rock Hall, MD for dinner at Latitude 31. What a treat! Cruisers rock.
Jekyll Island used to be privately owned by families like the Rockefellers and Vanderbilts. We rode our bikes all over the island, about 20 miles. The winds made riding a real workout. We rode out on the beach at St Andrews Sound at low tide. As we rounded the corner on the Atlantic Ocean side, the winds blew so forcefully in our faces that I felt like we were on stationary bikes! From the beach we took the bike trail to historic downtown to see the Jekyll Island Club Hotel. The Hotel reminds me of the Hotel del Coronado. The hotels have the same feel about them. From the hotel, we rode to the Sea Turtle Rehabilitation Center where we enjoyed learning about sea turtles. We stayed at the Center to watch the doctors make their rounds and talk about the condition and status of the sea turtle residents. Quaint shops and historic mansions, along with beautiful beaches stretching for miles make Jekyll Island resort a lovely vacation spot.
Today we are kicking back in Jekyll Island. In another hour it will be a reasonable time to call my brother, Theo (aka Mike) in San Francisco and wish him a happy 40th birthday. Later I will scour the boat so everything is spic and span.
We rode our bikes around Brunswick. Like New Bern, NC and Georgetown, SC, Brunswick has a paper/pulp mill. Again, the wind was blowing just right so we could not forget the mill. The locals say it smells like money. Money would not be the word I would choose. We rode through the historic downtown and enjoyed the quaint shops and old buildings. Later we rode a few miles outside of downtown to the West Marine store. When we found the West Marine, we could see the Golden Isles Marina. We realized we could have ridden our bikes into Brunswick easily instead of moving the boat. The Brunswick Landing Marina was worth the visit, though. They had lovely laundry facilities and offered them free of charge. Amazing!
On Veterans’ Day we moved the boat another short distance to the Jekyll Island Marina. We arrived by 9:00AM and had the rest of the day to see the island. We found our friends on Toucan and Solveig II already here. We docked beside Carol and her husband on Traumeri who are from Fairfield Harbor in New Bern, NC. Wayne and Lindell on Solveig II gave us several pictures they had taken of us underway and when they were aboard with us in Bucksport. How thoughtful! Gary and Lillian on Toucan invited us to join them and their friends from Rock Hall, MD for dinner at Latitude 31. What a treat! Cruisers rock.
Jekyll Island used to be privately owned by families like the Rockefellers and Vanderbilts. We rode our bikes all over the island, about 20 miles. The winds made riding a real workout. We rode out on the beach at St Andrews Sound at low tide. As we rounded the corner on the Atlantic Ocean side, the winds blew so forcefully in our faces that I felt like we were on stationary bikes! From the beach we took the bike trail to historic downtown to see the Jekyll Island Club Hotel. The Hotel reminds me of the Hotel del Coronado. The hotels have the same feel about them. From the hotel, we rode to the Sea Turtle Rehabilitation Center where we enjoyed learning about sea turtles. We stayed at the Center to watch the doctors make their rounds and talk about the condition and status of the sea turtle residents. Quaint shops and historic mansions, along with beautiful beaches stretching for miles make Jekyll Island resort a lovely vacation spot.
Today we are kicking back in Jekyll Island. In another hour it will be a reasonable time to call my brother, Theo (aka Mike) in San Francisco and wish him a happy 40th birthday. Later I will scour the boat so everything is spic and span.
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Isle of Hope to St Simons Island
The Georgia portion of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AICW) winds down the coast like a maze of rivers and grasses. It looks funny to see sailboat masts moving in the grasses – winding two or three miles to make one mile of headway. Here, the AICW has many shallow spots that require complete attention and precision while navigating, and prior planning to ensure traversing them at mid-rising to high tide. Armed with cruising guides by both Dozier and Young, the latest paper charts, our sporadically functioning GPS/chart plotter, the latest scoop from “Skipper Bob”, and our plans A and B, we departed Isle of Hope Marina for one of the many anchorages along the way.
The first challenging section of the AICW was called Hell Gate. We arrived at mid-rising tide. Fellow cruisers aboard the sailing vessel “Silver” had passed through ahead of us and radioed back that they never saw depths less than eight feet. We need at least five-and-a-half feet to avoid a close encounter of the grounding kind. Delighted to have this valuable information, we relaxed and made sure we stayed in the right part of the channel.
The day was as beautiful as I had ever seen. The only time I remember a sky so clear and blue was hiking around the lakes high in the Southern Sierras. Dolphins swam beside our bow as we traversed St Catherine Sound. John could have looked over the side into the water to shave his face. Yes, the Sound really was that calm!
We radioed Dan and Kathy on Sea Star, an Island Packet 440, to ask them where they planned to stop for the night. They were just ahead of us and were heading for Walburg Creek, just across St Catherine Sound. We decided to join them. Breathtaking, picturesque, serene, heavenly – the pictures on our website hardly capture the beauty of Walburg Creek. We anchored beside Sea Star. Dan and Kathy drove their dinghy to our boat for cold beverages and dinner. They have been cruising since July, first up to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, and now south to the Caribbean. They went “all in” and sold their home to live aboard. We enjoyed their stories and tips!
The next day we wound our way about 56.7 miles (but who’s counting?) through more challenging spots in the AICW where shoaling has occurred. We were white-knuckled through Little Mud Creek, because favorable currents caused us to arrive at the mouth of the creek an hour earlier than we had planned. Tides change by about six feet during each cycle. We were only two hours beyond low tide. The Cruisers’ Net website advised to only pass through at high tide, with added emphasis in all caps “NO FOOLING!”. Perhaps that cruiser exaggerated, or maybe he was in a different part of the channel. The lowest depths we saw were eight feet.
The final white-knuckle moment of the day was passing under the 65-foot vertical clearance fixed bridge between Brunswick and Lanier Island, just before the Golden Isle Marina. We arrived at the bridge only 45 minutes prior to high tide. The vertical clearance marker on the bridge said “64” feet. That is the absolute minimum clearance we need for our 63.5-foot mast. For those of you familiar with the DISC assessment, I was praying that the person who installed that clearance marker was a “high C”(perfectionist, attention to detail)! I stood on the bow as we waited for power boats to pass under the bridge and for their wakes to subside. Finally, ten minutes closer to high tide, it was our turn. I held my breath as the mast cleared the bridge with inches to spare. The VHF antenna twanged as it brushed the first spar, second spar, third spar, …I think I counted eight spars. Fortunately, the antenna is hearty and it still rides atop the mast and functions as advertised.
We docked uneventfully at the Golden Isle Marina at 4PM, a lovely end to a demanding day. Our friend, Richard, had already arrived at the marina. He is a fellow Georgia Tech graduate who built his own powerboat – a hybrid with both a gas and electric motors. Solar panels keep his house batteries charged. He is single-handing his boat to Ft Lauderdale. We enjoyed deep and philosophical conversation with him!
This morning we awoke to find freshly baked blueberry and chocolate chip muffins outside of our companion way. We thought Carl was kidding when he greeted us at the dock and said the staff would deliver muffins to us in the morning! What a treat! After a slow start to the morning, including this week’s Turning Point podcast, we borrowed the courtesy car and toured St Simons Island. The island is a seaside resort with a fascinating history and old southern money roots.
Tomorrow we will move a short distance to Brunswick. We want to see the city before moving on to St Marys, GA.
The first challenging section of the AICW was called Hell Gate. We arrived at mid-rising tide. Fellow cruisers aboard the sailing vessel “Silver” had passed through ahead of us and radioed back that they never saw depths less than eight feet. We need at least five-and-a-half feet to avoid a close encounter of the grounding kind. Delighted to have this valuable information, we relaxed and made sure we stayed in the right part of the channel.
The day was as beautiful as I had ever seen. The only time I remember a sky so clear and blue was hiking around the lakes high in the Southern Sierras. Dolphins swam beside our bow as we traversed St Catherine Sound. John could have looked over the side into the water to shave his face. Yes, the Sound really was that calm!
We radioed Dan and Kathy on Sea Star, an Island Packet 440, to ask them where they planned to stop for the night. They were just ahead of us and were heading for Walburg Creek, just across St Catherine Sound. We decided to join them. Breathtaking, picturesque, serene, heavenly – the pictures on our website hardly capture the beauty of Walburg Creek. We anchored beside Sea Star. Dan and Kathy drove their dinghy to our boat for cold beverages and dinner. They have been cruising since July, first up to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, and now south to the Caribbean. They went “all in” and sold their home to live aboard. We enjoyed their stories and tips!
The next day we wound our way about 56.7 miles (but who’s counting?) through more challenging spots in the AICW where shoaling has occurred. We were white-knuckled through Little Mud Creek, because favorable currents caused us to arrive at the mouth of the creek an hour earlier than we had planned. Tides change by about six feet during each cycle. We were only two hours beyond low tide. The Cruisers’ Net website advised to only pass through at high tide, with added emphasis in all caps “NO FOOLING!”. Perhaps that cruiser exaggerated, or maybe he was in a different part of the channel. The lowest depths we saw were eight feet.
The final white-knuckle moment of the day was passing under the 65-foot vertical clearance fixed bridge between Brunswick and Lanier Island, just before the Golden Isle Marina. We arrived at the bridge only 45 minutes prior to high tide. The vertical clearance marker on the bridge said “64” feet. That is the absolute minimum clearance we need for our 63.5-foot mast. For those of you familiar with the DISC assessment, I was praying that the person who installed that clearance marker was a “high C”(perfectionist, attention to detail)! I stood on the bow as we waited for power boats to pass under the bridge and for their wakes to subside. Finally, ten minutes closer to high tide, it was our turn. I held my breath as the mast cleared the bridge with inches to spare. The VHF antenna twanged as it brushed the first spar, second spar, third spar, …I think I counted eight spars. Fortunately, the antenna is hearty and it still rides atop the mast and functions as advertised.
We docked uneventfully at the Golden Isle Marina at 4PM, a lovely end to a demanding day. Our friend, Richard, had already arrived at the marina. He is a fellow Georgia Tech graduate who built his own powerboat – a hybrid with both a gas and electric motors. Solar panels keep his house batteries charged. He is single-handing his boat to Ft Lauderdale. We enjoyed deep and philosophical conversation with him!
This morning we awoke to find freshly baked blueberry and chocolate chip muffins outside of our companion way. We thought Carl was kidding when he greeted us at the dock and said the staff would deliver muffins to us in the morning! What a treat! After a slow start to the morning, including this week’s Turning Point podcast, we borrowed the courtesy car and toured St Simons Island. The island is a seaside resort with a fascinating history and old southern money roots.
Tomorrow we will move a short distance to Brunswick. We want to see the city before moving on to St Marys, GA.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Beaufort, SC and Isle of Hope, GA
Beaufort, SC is a lovely town, with an historic downtown area along the waterfront similar to Georgetown and Southport. We enjoyed three nights at the Beaufort Downtown Marina waiting for the rainy weather to clear. Breakfast at Blackstone's on two mornings is what we will remember most. (Blackstone's is a small cafe' specializing in shrimp and grits, and sporting lots of Marine Corps "stuff" on the walls.) That, and being with friends we have met along the way. We enjoyed getting to know Wayne and Lindell on Solveig II. Meeting new friends is still my favorite part of cruising.
We flew our 4' x 6' Marine Corps flag proudly in Beaufort, SC (home of MCAS Beaufort) and left it flying as we cruised past Parris Island on our way to Isle of Hope, GA. I continue to call it "Isle of Palms" accidentally, because palm trees abound here.
We left Beaufort, SC at the same time Ben and Judy Beatty were leaving on their sailboat, Sunpenny. They saw our flag flying and called us on the radio. Ben's Dad had been a Marine flying Corsairs in WWII. Now that's a manly job! Ben and Judy have been down the AICW many times, so they led the way and we traveled together to Isle of Hope, GA. We enjoyed spending a few hours with them that evening once we were settled. They shared their crusing stories and we learned tons about cruising through Florida.
Along the way we were thrilled to see another bald eagle. What majestic birds they are! I'm so glad that Ben Franklin did not get his way. The bald eagle is the perfect symbol of the U.S.A.
Isle of Hope is considered part of Savannah, GA. We did not make time to see downtown Savannah or Hilton Head this trip. Perhaps we will stop there on our way home. We enjoy the smaller villages along the waterway.
The Isle of Hope marina is a terrific stop for cruisers. The facilities are up-to-date and the staff is friendly and knowledgable. In addition to the typical marina services, they offer two courtesy cars, free wireless Internet service, outgoing mail service, notary services and faxing. This marina is at the top of our list so far. We drove a courtesy car to WalMart for a little provisioning and a new toy for Elvis Ann. :-) She's really adjusting well to the cruising life.
It is another beautiful sunny day today. I'm not actually sure what day it is. Now in the morning when we awaken, John turns to me and asks "What day is it?". I turn back to him and say "It's today!". To which he responds, "My favorite day!". I know, it's silly. Is that too much information?
In a few minutes we will depart for windy rivers in southern Georgia. I'm not sure if we will have cell phone or Internet access for a day or so. We are looking forward to the beautiful, yet remote scenery.
We flew our 4' x 6' Marine Corps flag proudly in Beaufort, SC (home of MCAS Beaufort) and left it flying as we cruised past Parris Island on our way to Isle of Hope, GA. I continue to call it "Isle of Palms" accidentally, because palm trees abound here.
We left Beaufort, SC at the same time Ben and Judy Beatty were leaving on their sailboat, Sunpenny. They saw our flag flying and called us on the radio. Ben's Dad had been a Marine flying Corsairs in WWII. Now that's a manly job! Ben and Judy have been down the AICW many times, so they led the way and we traveled together to Isle of Hope, GA. We enjoyed spending a few hours with them that evening once we were settled. They shared their crusing stories and we learned tons about cruising through Florida.
Along the way we were thrilled to see another bald eagle. What majestic birds they are! I'm so glad that Ben Franklin did not get his way. The bald eagle is the perfect symbol of the U.S.A.
Isle of Hope is considered part of Savannah, GA. We did not make time to see downtown Savannah or Hilton Head this trip. Perhaps we will stop there on our way home. We enjoy the smaller villages along the waterway.
The Isle of Hope marina is a terrific stop for cruisers. The facilities are up-to-date and the staff is friendly and knowledgable. In addition to the typical marina services, they offer two courtesy cars, free wireless Internet service, outgoing mail service, notary services and faxing. This marina is at the top of our list so far. We drove a courtesy car to WalMart for a little provisioning and a new toy for Elvis Ann. :-) She's really adjusting well to the cruising life.
It is another beautiful sunny day today. I'm not actually sure what day it is. Now in the morning when we awaken, John turns to me and asks "What day is it?". I turn back to him and say "It's today!". To which he responds, "My favorite day!". I know, it's silly. Is that too much information?
In a few minutes we will depart for windy rivers in southern Georgia. I'm not sure if we will have cell phone or Internet access for a day or so. We are looking forward to the beautiful, yet remote scenery.
Mercy and Grace in Charleston
The secret to navigating Charleston Harbor is timing your arrival during slack tides. We arrived as the tides were beginning to ebb. Our assigned slip was on the outside of the Charleston City Marina just beyond the marina entrance channel. We tried backing into the slip. The slip grew smaller and smaller as our boat grew bigger and bigger. The swift currents made backing in impossible. John made another pass and pulled in bow first. John and Randy, our next-slip neighbors, stepped off of their boat to assist us. I was grateful for their help, because the strong currents worked hard to push us into their boat. I suspect they noticed that, too. With the boat tied to the dock, we drug the 50-Amp power cord to the bow of the boat only to find that the cord was too short to reach the power pedestal on the dock. So, we asked the marina staff for a different slip. Our new slip was just inside the entrance channel along the megadock. By now about an hour had passed. Our neighbors helped us cast off just before sunset, and we pulled out for the short jaunt to our new slip. By now the ebbing currents were swift and the winds had picked up to 15 knots or so. Having a shoal-draft keel, we need water over the keel in order to steer the boat. Despite John’s excellent skills at the helm, he, our Yanmar 100-horsepower engine, and our bow-thruster were no match for the winds and current. The swift currents swept our stern onto a piling and the stern of a 115-foot aluminum-hull sailboat docked just inside the entrance channel. Unlike our slip, the stern of the other boat looked bigger and bigger as we quickly approached it until we were pinned. I dropped fenders in place just in time to avoid damage to either vessel. Other people at the marina came by to offer support. Many of them had experienced the same predicament. They convinced us that our only safe solution was to wait for slack tides and float off of the other boat. After nearly three hours, the tides slacked, we floated away and drove uneventfully into our slip.
I told you that story to tell you this. Our journey so far has been full of God’s mercy and grace. We received more than our share in Charleston.
God’s mercy: We were not moving any faster out of the slip.
God’s grace: Our fenders were tied in exactly the right place and I could throw them over the side just in time to avoid damage to our boat and the other boat.
God’s mercy: Ronny and Nicolette were on the other boat.
God’s grace: They remained calm, knew what to do, tied more fenders in place, and made sure we were okay.
God’s mercy: Several others docked at the marina saw what happened and stopped by to offer support.
God’s grace: Many of them had the same kind of experience in the past and shared with us the solution that worked best for them, keeping us from making their mistakes.
God’s mercy: Only one trawler tried to motor through the marina entrance channel while we were pinned.
God’s grace: We were able to hold the fenders and boat in place while we rode out the trawler’s wake so no damage was done to either boat.
Every day we count our blessings. Some days we have to use our fingers AND our toes. :-)
I told you that story to tell you this. Our journey so far has been full of God’s mercy and grace. We received more than our share in Charleston.
God’s mercy: We were not moving any faster out of the slip.
God’s grace: Our fenders were tied in exactly the right place and I could throw them over the side just in time to avoid damage to our boat and the other boat.
God’s mercy: Ronny and Nicolette were on the other boat.
God’s grace: They remained calm, knew what to do, tied more fenders in place, and made sure we were okay.
God’s mercy: Several others docked at the marina saw what happened and stopped by to offer support.
God’s grace: Many of them had the same kind of experience in the past and shared with us the solution that worked best for them, keeping us from making their mistakes.
God’s mercy: Only one trawler tried to motor through the marina entrance channel while we were pinned.
God’s grace: We were able to hold the fenders and boat in place while we rode out the trawler’s wake so no damage was done to either boat.
Every day we count our blessings. Some days we have to use our fingers AND our toes. :-)
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Georgetown to Charleston
Cruising the waterway between Georgetown and Charleston felt like stepping out of civilization into the wild. Just south of Georgetown, a pair of bald eagles graced us. One soared over us while the other perched nearby. A wild pig slept on the sandy shore. Great egrets and great blue herons fished in the shallows. Flat, grassy swamps stretched to the horizon. Turtles sunned together on large logs. Even navigating the shoals, we felt so peaceful.
In Charleston, we stayed for two nights at the Charleston City Marina. The marina was completely full. We docked on the inside of the marina on the megadock. We were surrounded by mega-yachts each over 100-feet long. Let's just say that there were far more motor yachts than sailboats at the marina. And, while the staff did what they could to provide the promised services, we were not their first priority.
We worked on the boat in the morning, washing and polishing it, changing the fuel filter, checking the oil. In the afternoon, we took the marina shuttle into historic downtown. The highlight of our day was a horse-drawn carriage tour from N. Market Street around the Battery area on the waterfront. We topped off the day with an old fashioned chocolate milkshake and a light dinner at Bubba Gump's.
This morning we waited for slack tide at 11am and departed the marina. We headed down the Wapoo Creek through Elliot's Cut, then turned into the Stono River. Yes, we may have gone all of three miles today. :-) Tomorrow we will make the long trek to Beaufort, SC. Today, we simply wanted to swing on our anchor and enjoy the view together. My vocabulary fails me when describing the sunset this evening. I'll post a picture, although I'm not sure it will capture the breathtaking 360-degree rays of the bright sunshine through the clouds. Another peaceful day after being in the city. I'm looking forward to the trip tomorrow through the lowlands and rivers of South Carolina.
In Charleston, we stayed for two nights at the Charleston City Marina. The marina was completely full. We docked on the inside of the marina on the megadock. We were surrounded by mega-yachts each over 100-feet long. Let's just say that there were far more motor yachts than sailboats at the marina. And, while the staff did what they could to provide the promised services, we were not their first priority.
We worked on the boat in the morning, washing and polishing it, changing the fuel filter, checking the oil. In the afternoon, we took the marina shuttle into historic downtown. The highlight of our day was a horse-drawn carriage tour from N. Market Street around the Battery area on the waterfront. We topped off the day with an old fashioned chocolate milkshake and a light dinner at Bubba Gump's.
This morning we waited for slack tide at 11am and departed the marina. We headed down the Wapoo Creek through Elliot's Cut, then turned into the Stono River. Yes, we may have gone all of three miles today. :-) Tomorrow we will make the long trek to Beaufort, SC. Today, we simply wanted to swing on our anchor and enjoy the view together. My vocabulary fails me when describing the sunset this evening. I'll post a picture, although I'm not sure it will capture the breathtaking 360-degree rays of the bright sunshine through the clouds. Another peaceful day after being in the city. I'm looking forward to the trip tomorrow through the lowlands and rivers of South Carolina.
Bucksport and Georgetown
In between Myrtle Beach and Georgetown, we stopped for a night at the Bucksport Marina. The marina staff in Myrtle Beach warned us that it was not a good stop. However, we found the staff and locals to be friendly, and the atmosphere rustic. I enjoyed the opportunity to do laundry without competition for the machines and with the laundry building in proximity to the boat. The atmosphere reminded me of something we could find in Pamlico County outside of Oriental. With the 50Amp cord plugged in at the dock, we turned on the heat and slept deeply through a 36-degree night.
We had been traveling parallel to another sailing vessel - Solveig II. We were in Myrtle Beach together and stopped at Bucksport together. Wayne and Lindell are the owners. They are from north of Toronto and are heading to the Bahamas, retracing their cruise of 20 years ago when their sons were with them. They left home in August. I was feeling grateful to live in Oriental, so much closer to the FL Keys. Meeting people is one of the most fun parts of cruising so far. We invited them to our boat for a glass of wine. Elvis Ann entertained them with her usual tricks. Being the center of attention makes her so happy. :-)
The next morning we headed for Georgetown, SC. We stayed two nights at a marina on the waterfront. Let's just say that the dockmaster will not be voted "Mr. Congeniality" any time soon. Despite the dockmaster's disposition, we found Georgetown to be delightful. The highlight of our visit was a trolley tour given by a long-time resident. My southern history was a bit lacking. I never realized the level of religious tolerance South Carolina had during the 1700s and 1800s. People who were persecuted elsewhere settled in Georgetown and around South Carolina. For instance, many Jewish people found a happy home in Georgetown. I enjoyed seeing the historic homes and the quaint historic downtown area. Tree-lined streets, a clock tower, and lots of flowers make Georgetown charming. I felt as if I'd stepped into a Jan Karon novel.
Did I mention Confederate Roses in my last blog entry? We are fortunate to be here while those bushes are blooming. The leaves are large and green, and large pink blossoms cover the bushes like a hydrangea bush in the NC summer. We saw many of these bushes in bloom in the ICW and in Georgetown.
From Georgetown we moved 67 miles to Charleston Harbor. We followed John and Honey in Hielan Lass. We had seen them on our way to Wrightsville Beach, and then we saw each other again at the same marina in Georgetown. They are from NJ and are also heading to Marathon, FL. John and I enjoyed traveling the waterway with them.
We had been traveling parallel to another sailing vessel - Solveig II. We were in Myrtle Beach together and stopped at Bucksport together. Wayne and Lindell are the owners. They are from north of Toronto and are heading to the Bahamas, retracing their cruise of 20 years ago when their sons were with them. They left home in August. I was feeling grateful to live in Oriental, so much closer to the FL Keys. Meeting people is one of the most fun parts of cruising so far. We invited them to our boat for a glass of wine. Elvis Ann entertained them with her usual tricks. Being the center of attention makes her so happy. :-)
The next morning we headed for Georgetown, SC. We stayed two nights at a marina on the waterfront. Let's just say that the dockmaster will not be voted "Mr. Congeniality" any time soon. Despite the dockmaster's disposition, we found Georgetown to be delightful. The highlight of our visit was a trolley tour given by a long-time resident. My southern history was a bit lacking. I never realized the level of religious tolerance South Carolina had during the 1700s and 1800s. People who were persecuted elsewhere settled in Georgetown and around South Carolina. For instance, many Jewish people found a happy home in Georgetown. I enjoyed seeing the historic homes and the quaint historic downtown area. Tree-lined streets, a clock tower, and lots of flowers make Georgetown charming. I felt as if I'd stepped into a Jan Karon novel.
Did I mention Confederate Roses in my last blog entry? We are fortunate to be here while those bushes are blooming. The leaves are large and green, and large pink blossoms cover the bushes like a hydrangea bush in the NC summer. We saw many of these bushes in bloom in the ICW and in Georgetown.
From Georgetown we moved 67 miles to Charleston Harbor. We followed John and Honey in Hielan Lass. We had seen them on our way to Wrightsville Beach, and then we saw each other again at the same marina in Georgetown. They are from NJ and are also heading to Marathon, FL. John and I enjoyed traveling the waterway with them.
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