As we departed the Tortugas, the winds remained strong. Exactly how strong we do not know, because our wind instrument was still not working. Waves were four to six feet. What fun it was to make almost eight knots surfing down the waves powered completely by wind in our sails! Elvis Ann held onto her perch for dear life in her V-berth cage and held up well through the ride. By noon the waves subsided to about three feet and the winds had weakened considerably.
Our destination was the Naval Air Station (NAS) Key West marina at Boca Chica. We were delighted to learn that Island Chariot can make it through the Boca Chica channel. As we neared the marina, a couple from B-dock greeted us from their RIB. Richard from Calypso was standing by and called us on the radio to let us know where our slip, C29, was. He and others met us at the dock and assisted us with our lines. Although we can come and go from docks by ourselves it is always nice to have a hand. Once we were settled, we quickly became friends with many of the couples wintering there. We enjoyed dinner out with different couples on most of the six nights we stayed.
Naturally, we were exhausted on our first night in Boca Chica. We made an easy dinner and turned in early. The next morning as we enjoyed the scenery from our back deck we heard a familiar sound. Could harriers be at NAS Key West? We looked up into the blue skies and sure enough, those were harriers! We moved the bikes off of Island Chariot and pedaled over to the hangars to see which squadron was in town for training. To our delight, it was VMA-311, commanded by none other than LtCol John “Sugar” Kane. Sugar and John (aka “Greedy”, earned for being greedy for flight time in the training squadron) are great friends. They deployed to the Mediterranean together in 2002. John has been thawing out and melting back into civilian life after retiring last May. It felt good to be with an old friend in a familiar setting.
The entire Boca Chica experience felt familiar. Every evening on C-dock, marina residents equipped with conchs and drinks gathered before sunset. To celebrate another beautiful day in the Keys, we played our conchs in unison. When we arrived, the 10-day Conch Republic celebration was well underway. Groups from the marina went together to the “Drag Races” and “A Taste of Key West”. These “drag races” involved drag queens, high heels, and shopping carts in the 700-block of Duval Street. A Taste of Key West is an aids benefit during which local restaurants set up tents on the water in the Truman Annex and offer one or two food choices for participants. Our group finished the evening listening to the band play 70s music at Sloppy Joes. One of our companions was a petite, delightful young-looking woman who retired in July after 26-years as a neurologist in her own practice. I was proud of myself, because I was not surprised at all!
What we had originally intended to be an overnight stay in Boca Chica turned into a six-night stay. I’m noticing a trend here. Our six month anniversary of being on the water was on Monday, April 20th. We had originally intended to be home in six months. We are back in Marathon now. Winds have been 25 to 35-knots from the east for several days and are predicted to be through at least Tuesday. We will start toward home when the winds relax a bit and clock around so they are not in our faces as we sail to Key Largo.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Drama in the Tortugas
For two days and three nights Island Chariot swung on her CQR and Bruce anchors. On Easter night, ten other boats shared the anchorage with us. By Monday night, 20 boats were shoe-horned into place. Carolina blue skies, bright sunshine, temperatures in the upper 70s with light breezes, knowledgeable Park Rangers, and crystal-clear waters made the days exactly the way I envisioned they would be.
On Monday morning, Ranger Chris offered an 0900 tour of Fort Jefferson to boaters before the tourists from Key West arrived by ferry. We joined six other adults and four children for an intimate and informative tour. Ranger Chris has two Master’s Degrees in military history and architecture, specializing in Thomas Jefferson. Cliff Claven himself could not have offered more interesting details about the fort (“Cheers” reference)! Following our tour, we walked all the way around the moat wall and then explored inside the fort for the rest of the day. We are still amazed that 16 million bricks arrived by boat from Florida and Maine in the 1860s to build that amazing structure one brick at a time.
In addition to Fort Jefferson, Mother Nature provided much to enjoy. The Dry Tortugas are home to tens of thousands of birds in several bird colonies, namely sooty terns, brown noddies, and frigate birds. Did you know that sooty terns fly for the first three years or so of their lives? Bush Island (on the southeast side of the anchorage) is like New York City for birds. 24/7 there is something going on! Every night sounded like a sooty tern party. Their cry even sounds like “WIDE AWAKE! WIDE AWAKE!”. I thought of my dear friends, Drake and Skip. They are not bird lovers like I am. In fact, I think if they were there their thoughts would have turned to Alfred Hitchcock.
On Tuesday, the weather was perfect again with clear blue skies and temperatures in the 70s. We donned our snorkeling gear and headed to the beach on the northeast side of the fort. Swimming in the crystal clear aqua ocean waters was like swimming in an aquarium. Not even at Sea World have I seen so many varieties of colorful fish in all shapes and sizes! The various types of coral were spectacular, too. When we were too tired to swim any more, we drove the RIB (our dinghy) back to Island Chariot and rested before making dinner.
The highlight of the evening was taking the RIB across the calm waters to the west side of the fort to watch the sunset over Loggerhead Key. Vivid orange, yellow, and red rays streamed from the sun as it lowered in the sky. Suddenly a feeling of foreboding came over us as the sun disappeared not into the sea, but into a sea of dark gray clouds. We motored the RIB back to Island Chariot and checked our weather print-out. NOAA had not predicted storms or high winds. We turned on our VHF radio and found channel two, the NOAA weather station that covers the Keys and Dry Tortugas. What’s this? A very- severe-boaters-take-cover thunderstorm warning for the Dry Tortugas?! Thirty-five knot winds with higher gusts?! The storm should be at the Dry Tortugas by 10PM?! What the??
Cruisers use VHF channel 71 in the Dry Tortugas anchorage. The channel had been quiet all afternoon. Now the chatter began. Cruisers who heard the warning were alerting the others. We all battened down the hatches, zipped our enclosures, checked our anchors and waited. By 2130 clouds full of lightning filled the skies around us. Thankfully, the lightning never passed over the top of the anchorage. However, we were all nervous, because we did not know that would be the case. Having the highest mast-of-metal in a sea of boats is not what you want in a lightning storm!
As predicted (only hours prior!), at 2200, 35-knot winds arrived without build-up. Here we go! Island Chariot and the other boats in the anchorage heeled over and swung around to face into the wind. The trawler next to us was rapidly only about 10 feet from us. We both freaked. The trawler captain noticed, too. He started his engines, pulled up his anchor, and drove off to find a safer position. By this time, most of the captains, John included, had started their engines and were ready to move quickly in case their anchors drug. We planned to leave the next morning, as did several of the other cruisers. Before sunset some of them pulled up one of the two anchors they had set to facilitate an easy departure. Now, their single anchors were dragging and they found themselves resetting their positions. With the anchorage so crowded, we all had less anchor rode out than we would normally use. Spotlights swept through the harbor as everyone kept an eye on each others positions. We were the most southeastern and therefore the most upwind boat. It was imperative we hold our position as all of the boats were behind us. Our hearts pounded as we could imagine our 22 tons dragging and cascading damage onto those behind us.
By 0130 we thought the storm was over. A few people checked in on channel 71 to report that they were okay. We all turned off our engines and prepared to attempt sleep. Unfortunately, it was just a minor reprieve. At 0145 the 35+ knot winds returned. We all raced back up to our cockpits, fired up our engines, and turned on our electronics. A working wind instrument would have been so wonderful! We were dealing with the wind the old fashioned way, as Ponce de Leon himself might have done when he discovered the islands in 1513.
At 0300, drama ensued at the southwest end of the anchorage. A trawler’s anchor had come loose. The trawler blew backwards until his anchor chain drug across the set anchor chains of a tri-maran and a monohull. The tri-maran slid into the monohull and the stays of the two boats became entangled. Eventually the boats broke loose and drove to safety with minimal damage considering what had happened. Not far away, another trawler’s anchor drug. The trawler blew aground on some rocks, but not before its anchor chain unrolled and the final link left the boat. Apparently the long chain was not attached. The trawler's keel had broken and it had to be towed 70 miles back to Key West. Then, between Island Chariot and Fort Jefferson, a schooner’s anchor drug. The happy ending for its crew came when the schooner blew right onto the ferry dock at the fort. Their anchor grabbed and their chain lay across the channel; however, they tied the schooner to the dock and were safe for the night.
By 0500 the storm had finally passed. We went below to grab an hour or so of sleep. By 0630 we were awake and preparing for our departure. When we were ready to leave, both anchors came up easily and completely clean. Although the winds blew and the waves rocked, it was the smoothest departure from an anchorage we have had! Thank goodness!
On Monday morning, Ranger Chris offered an 0900 tour of Fort Jefferson to boaters before the tourists from Key West arrived by ferry. We joined six other adults and four children for an intimate and informative tour. Ranger Chris has two Master’s Degrees in military history and architecture, specializing in Thomas Jefferson. Cliff Claven himself could not have offered more interesting details about the fort (“Cheers” reference)! Following our tour, we walked all the way around the moat wall and then explored inside the fort for the rest of the day. We are still amazed that 16 million bricks arrived by boat from Florida and Maine in the 1860s to build that amazing structure one brick at a time.
In addition to Fort Jefferson, Mother Nature provided much to enjoy. The Dry Tortugas are home to tens of thousands of birds in several bird colonies, namely sooty terns, brown noddies, and frigate birds. Did you know that sooty terns fly for the first three years or so of their lives? Bush Island (on the southeast side of the anchorage) is like New York City for birds. 24/7 there is something going on! Every night sounded like a sooty tern party. Their cry even sounds like “WIDE AWAKE! WIDE AWAKE!”. I thought of my dear friends, Drake and Skip. They are not bird lovers like I am. In fact, I think if they were there their thoughts would have turned to Alfred Hitchcock.
On Tuesday, the weather was perfect again with clear blue skies and temperatures in the 70s. We donned our snorkeling gear and headed to the beach on the northeast side of the fort. Swimming in the crystal clear aqua ocean waters was like swimming in an aquarium. Not even at Sea World have I seen so many varieties of colorful fish in all shapes and sizes! The various types of coral were spectacular, too. When we were too tired to swim any more, we drove the RIB (our dinghy) back to Island Chariot and rested before making dinner.
The highlight of the evening was taking the RIB across the calm waters to the west side of the fort to watch the sunset over Loggerhead Key. Vivid orange, yellow, and red rays streamed from the sun as it lowered in the sky. Suddenly a feeling of foreboding came over us as the sun disappeared not into the sea, but into a sea of dark gray clouds. We motored the RIB back to Island Chariot and checked our weather print-out. NOAA had not predicted storms or high winds. We turned on our VHF radio and found channel two, the NOAA weather station that covers the Keys and Dry Tortugas. What’s this? A very- severe-boaters-take-cover thunderstorm warning for the Dry Tortugas?! Thirty-five knot winds with higher gusts?! The storm should be at the Dry Tortugas by 10PM?! What the??
Cruisers use VHF channel 71 in the Dry Tortugas anchorage. The channel had been quiet all afternoon. Now the chatter began. Cruisers who heard the warning were alerting the others. We all battened down the hatches, zipped our enclosures, checked our anchors and waited. By 2130 clouds full of lightning filled the skies around us. Thankfully, the lightning never passed over the top of the anchorage. However, we were all nervous, because we did not know that would be the case. Having the highest mast-of-metal in a sea of boats is not what you want in a lightning storm!
As predicted (only hours prior!), at 2200, 35-knot winds arrived without build-up. Here we go! Island Chariot and the other boats in the anchorage heeled over and swung around to face into the wind. The trawler next to us was rapidly only about 10 feet from us. We both freaked. The trawler captain noticed, too. He started his engines, pulled up his anchor, and drove off to find a safer position. By this time, most of the captains, John included, had started their engines and were ready to move quickly in case their anchors drug. We planned to leave the next morning, as did several of the other cruisers. Before sunset some of them pulled up one of the two anchors they had set to facilitate an easy departure. Now, their single anchors were dragging and they found themselves resetting their positions. With the anchorage so crowded, we all had less anchor rode out than we would normally use. Spotlights swept through the harbor as everyone kept an eye on each others positions. We were the most southeastern and therefore the most upwind boat. It was imperative we hold our position as all of the boats were behind us. Our hearts pounded as we could imagine our 22 tons dragging and cascading damage onto those behind us.
By 0130 we thought the storm was over. A few people checked in on channel 71 to report that they were okay. We all turned off our engines and prepared to attempt sleep. Unfortunately, it was just a minor reprieve. At 0145 the 35+ knot winds returned. We all raced back up to our cockpits, fired up our engines, and turned on our electronics. A working wind instrument would have been so wonderful! We were dealing with the wind the old fashioned way, as Ponce de Leon himself might have done when he discovered the islands in 1513.
At 0300, drama ensued at the southwest end of the anchorage. A trawler’s anchor had come loose. The trawler blew backwards until his anchor chain drug across the set anchor chains of a tri-maran and a monohull. The tri-maran slid into the monohull and the stays of the two boats became entangled. Eventually the boats broke loose and drove to safety with minimal damage considering what had happened. Not far away, another trawler’s anchor drug. The trawler blew aground on some rocks, but not before its anchor chain unrolled and the final link left the boat. Apparently the long chain was not attached. The trawler's keel had broken and it had to be towed 70 miles back to Key West. Then, between Island Chariot and Fort Jefferson, a schooner’s anchor drug. The happy ending for its crew came when the schooner blew right onto the ferry dock at the fort. Their anchor grabbed and their chain lay across the channel; however, they tied the schooner to the dock and were safe for the night.
By 0500 the storm had finally passed. We went below to grab an hour or so of sleep. By 0630 we were awake and preparing for our departure. When we were ready to leave, both anchors came up easily and completely clean. Although the winds blew and the waves rocked, it was the smoothest departure from an anchorage we have had! Thank goodness!
A Grand Adventure to the Dry Tortugas
In honor of John’s birthday, Easter Sunday, and the first day of the Civil War all of which fell on April 12th, we sailed to the Dry Tortugas National Park (Fort Jefferson). On Friday evening, before we departed Marathon, the remaining cruisers on West Dock and I surprised John with cake, ice cream, and a round of “Happy Birthday” during sunset festivities. We actually surprised him, which is not easy to do!
On Saturday, April 11th, at 0900 after three months at Marathon Marina we left the dock and set our course for Key West (about 50 miles west). After clearing the Marathon channel, we let out the mainsail, genoa, and staysail, turned off the engine, and sailed peacefully on a reach at seven-knots in two-foot seas. Green sea turtles with two-foot-diameter shells popped their heads up to greet us along the way. What appeared to be a mommy and baby dolphin swam with us for a mile or so, playing and leaping in arcs out of the clear aqua-green water high into the air. Amazing!
By mid-afternoon we found ourselves sailing straight into the sun, once again being led by a trail of diamonds sparkling on the water. At 1600 we started the engine, reeled in the sails, and entered the Key West Channel. We dropped our anchor by Wisteria Island with a view of Mallory Square and a Carnival cruise ship on one side and an unobstructed view of the sunset on the other side. Equipped with cold beverages, we relaxed in the cockpit and watched the parasailing tourists go by high in the air. Following a picture-perfect Key West sunset, we went below to dine on beef stir-fry and mashed potatoes. By 2130 we were asleep.
We awoke on Easter morning without an alarm, excited about sailing the final 70-nautical miles to the Dry Tortugas. All winter we hoped a nice weather window would open up and allow for a beautiful pleasure trip to the Tortugas. By 0730 we had weighed anchor and were motoring out Key West channel. Light winds, calm seas, and blue skies made for a picture perfect day on the water. Once we passed the Marquesas, the water depth doubled from about 43-feet to almost 90-feet. The water color changed from aqua-green to a deep and bright royal blue. I have never seen that color before or since. Nor had I ever been in such crystal clear water. Frigate birds soared overhead showing off their glorious six to seven-foot wingspans. A pair of dolphins swam beside us for about an hour. More sea turtles popped up to greet us. I felt like I was in a documentary for National Geographic.
At last we saw Fort Jefferson in the distance. We reeled in the sails and motored into the west entrance at about 1630. We were the tenth boat in the anchorage. We motored into the southeast end. Although our charts said the water depth was only two feet, our depth gauge showed eight feet. We decided it was safe to anchor there. Once our 65-pound CQR anchor was set, John donned his wetsuit and dove down to check the anchor holding. The water was so clear that he could see the bottom all around Island Chariot. He confirmed that we had all the depth around us we needed.
With no cell phone coverage and NOAA weather cutting in and out on our radio, we were as offshore as we had ever been. We might as well have been on the moon!
Later that evening, we decided a second anchor would be a good idea. So, John jumped into the RIB and drove around to the bow of the boat. Using the windlass, I carefully lowered our 65-pound Bruce anchor into the RIB. Once the anchor was safely in the RIB, John began rowing directly into 10-15 knots of wind. I watched as his chest muscles flexed and bulged. He might as well have been on a stationary rowing machine! Just as I was preparing to hoist the Bruce back onto Island Chariot and prepare to lower the motor onto the RIB, our neighbor, Richard, from the trawler, Calypso, drove up in his RIB. He greeted us with a friendly hello and offered to tow John out to where he wanted to set the Bruce. We were delighted to meet Richard, not only because he appeared just when we needed him, but also because he, too, was retired from the military. He told us about the Naval Air Station marina at Boca Chica (Key West), and about how the 60-foot wires are no longer over the entrance channel. Woo hoo! That will be our next stop!
On Saturday, April 11th, at 0900 after three months at Marathon Marina we left the dock and set our course for Key West (about 50 miles west). After clearing the Marathon channel, we let out the mainsail, genoa, and staysail, turned off the engine, and sailed peacefully on a reach at seven-knots in two-foot seas. Green sea turtles with two-foot-diameter shells popped their heads up to greet us along the way. What appeared to be a mommy and baby dolphin swam with us for a mile or so, playing and leaping in arcs out of the clear aqua-green water high into the air. Amazing!
By mid-afternoon we found ourselves sailing straight into the sun, once again being led by a trail of diamonds sparkling on the water. At 1600 we started the engine, reeled in the sails, and entered the Key West Channel. We dropped our anchor by Wisteria Island with a view of Mallory Square and a Carnival cruise ship on one side and an unobstructed view of the sunset on the other side. Equipped with cold beverages, we relaxed in the cockpit and watched the parasailing tourists go by high in the air. Following a picture-perfect Key West sunset, we went below to dine on beef stir-fry and mashed potatoes. By 2130 we were asleep.
We awoke on Easter morning without an alarm, excited about sailing the final 70-nautical miles to the Dry Tortugas. All winter we hoped a nice weather window would open up and allow for a beautiful pleasure trip to the Tortugas. By 0730 we had weighed anchor and were motoring out Key West channel. Light winds, calm seas, and blue skies made for a picture perfect day on the water. Once we passed the Marquesas, the water depth doubled from about 43-feet to almost 90-feet. The water color changed from aqua-green to a deep and bright royal blue. I have never seen that color before or since. Nor had I ever been in such crystal clear water. Frigate birds soared overhead showing off their glorious six to seven-foot wingspans. A pair of dolphins swam beside us for about an hour. More sea turtles popped up to greet us. I felt like I was in a documentary for National Geographic.
At last we saw Fort Jefferson in the distance. We reeled in the sails and motored into the west entrance at about 1630. We were the tenth boat in the anchorage. We motored into the southeast end. Although our charts said the water depth was only two feet, our depth gauge showed eight feet. We decided it was safe to anchor there. Once our 65-pound CQR anchor was set, John donned his wetsuit and dove down to check the anchor holding. The water was so clear that he could see the bottom all around Island Chariot. He confirmed that we had all the depth around us we needed.
With no cell phone coverage and NOAA weather cutting in and out on our radio, we were as offshore as we had ever been. We might as well have been on the moon!
Later that evening, we decided a second anchor would be a good idea. So, John jumped into the RIB and drove around to the bow of the boat. Using the windlass, I carefully lowered our 65-pound Bruce anchor into the RIB. Once the anchor was safely in the RIB, John began rowing directly into 10-15 knots of wind. I watched as his chest muscles flexed and bulged. He might as well have been on a stationary rowing machine! Just as I was preparing to hoist the Bruce back onto Island Chariot and prepare to lower the motor onto the RIB, our neighbor, Richard, from the trawler, Calypso, drove up in his RIB. He greeted us with a friendly hello and offered to tow John out to where he wanted to set the Bruce. We were delighted to meet Richard, not only because he appeared just when we needed him, but also because he, too, was retired from the military. He told us about the Naval Air Station marina at Boca Chica (Key West), and about how the 60-foot wires are no longer over the entrance channel. Woo hoo! That will be our next stop!
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