Three weeks in Marathon have flown like they did in Miami Beach! Neither John nor I had ever been to Marathon before we chose it as our cruising destination. Fortunately, it is as beautiful and cruiser-friendly as we had hoped.
People on our dock at Marathon Marina are very social. Many of them are regulars here in the winter. Happy hour at sunset is a daily, well-attended event. Every evening, fellow live-aboards grab their conch shells, which have been drilled out and made into horns, and gather on the dock near Island Chariot. Our dock has a clear view of the sun dipping into the ocean. Just after the sun sinks out of sight, everyone raises their conchs to their lips and blows into them like bugles to signal the end of the day. The sound is like a cruise ship honking upon entering a channel. Last Saturday at the Big Pine Flea Market, I purchased a conch so I could join the choir. It’s the closest I’ll get to a Pamlico Community Band experience in Marathon! Just prior to sounding the conchs, we all wait with heightened anticipation for the illusive “green flash”. When conditions are right, just as the sun disappears you can see a split second of green light. Conditions are rarely just right. We were fortunate that only three days after our arrival we witnessed the “green flash”. Beautiful!
Elvis Ann is enjoying Marathon, because we have made so many new friends. She frequently entertains the happy hour crowd with parrot tricks while we all wait for sunset. More than anything, Elvis Ann loves attention. She sits on John’s hand. He holds her talons and gives the commands. She swings, hangs, cradles like a baby in his arms, lays on her back into his other hand, falls over dead when he points his finger at her and says “bang!”, and turns around in a circle. The “bang” trick is a real crowd pleaser. John gives everyone a chance to “shoot” her and say “bang!”. Elvis Ann performs perfectly every time!
We have made many good friends here and are in no hurry to leave…
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Arrival!
We woke before the sun on Monday, January 5th, excited about heading southwest to Marathon, FL. For more than 10 years John and I have imagined sailing south to the Florida Keys for the winter. Taking our time, seeing the sights, then landing in the Keys is #66 of 104 items on my bucket list.
Exactly one month after arriving at Sunset Harbour Yacht Club in Miami Beach, we pulled away from slip E-109 at 7AM and headed toward Key Biscayne. Rather than heading out to sea the way we came, we stayed inside the Biscayne Bay and exited at the Key Biscayne Channel into the Hawk Channel. The Hawk Channel runs about a mile offshore inside the reef separating the Atlantic Ocean from the Keys. We unfurled the mainsail, staysail, and genoa, then set our course for Rodriguez Key. Under robin’s-egg-blue skies and fluffy white clouds we sailed on a broad reach at 6.5 – 7.5 knots. The clear, blue-green seas were one to two feet with winds at 12 knots. Eric the autopilot held our course. John and I reclined on our cockpit cushions and grinned as we rode gently up and down on the waves.
We sailed about 50 miles on the first day and stopped for the night at the Rodriguez Key Anchorage opposite Key Largo. Fortunately, most boaters had reached their destinations so the anchorage was nearly empty. The water was so clear we could see the bottom eight feet below. The bottom was sandy and grassy, which made setting our 60-pound CQR anchor challenging. Once we were satisfied that the anchor would hold us for the night, John donned his wet suit, fins, mask, and snorkel and dove on anchor just to be sure. By 9PM we were asleep. John awoke at midnight to ensure we were not dragging the anchor as the winds picked up and clocked around to the east. All was well. John awoke again at 3:30AM. This time we were dragging. In fact, we had moved backward about three boat lengths. Thank goodness no boats were behind us and the east wind kept us from dragging aground. We were not in danger of running into anything, so we decided not to move the boat or reset the anchor. It seemed like the anchor had dug in again as we did not drag any further. John kept one eye open for the rest of the night. We had experienced another first that we had heard so much about, the anchor dragging.
As soon as we saw the first signs of daylight, we weighed anchor and headed for Marathon and, specifically, Boot Key Harbor. The winds were steady at 16-18 knots. With all the sails unfurled we maintained speeds of 8+ knots in two- to three- foot seas and 20 feet of water. We were frustrated at the tremendous number of lobster traps in the channel, which were difficult to see and challenging to avoid in the waves. Crab and lobster traps have small floats attached to thick lines attached to traps that sit on the bottom. Had we hit a trap, the line would likely have become wrapped around our propeller and pulled the shaft out of the boat causing us to take on water and possibly sink. With thousands of traps along the Keys it is hard to imagine there are any lobsters alive!
By 1:30PM on Tuesday we were pulling into Boot Key Harbor and Marathon Marina. NOAA weather forecasted a cold front and storms by Tuesday night or Wednesday, so we were delighted to be docked before the front arrived. We had finally arrived at the destination for which we set sail in October. Blue skies, 80-degree temperatures, light breezes, blue-green waters, manatees, mangrove trees, tiki bars, hundreds of fellow cruisers…we had seen it all in our minds for ten years, and the Keys are as breathtaking as we imagined them to be.
Exactly one month after arriving at Sunset Harbour Yacht Club in Miami Beach, we pulled away from slip E-109 at 7AM and headed toward Key Biscayne. Rather than heading out to sea the way we came, we stayed inside the Biscayne Bay and exited at the Key Biscayne Channel into the Hawk Channel. The Hawk Channel runs about a mile offshore inside the reef separating the Atlantic Ocean from the Keys. We unfurled the mainsail, staysail, and genoa, then set our course for Rodriguez Key. Under robin’s-egg-blue skies and fluffy white clouds we sailed on a broad reach at 6.5 – 7.5 knots. The clear, blue-green seas were one to two feet with winds at 12 knots. Eric the autopilot held our course. John and I reclined on our cockpit cushions and grinned as we rode gently up and down on the waves.
We sailed about 50 miles on the first day and stopped for the night at the Rodriguez Key Anchorage opposite Key Largo. Fortunately, most boaters had reached their destinations so the anchorage was nearly empty. The water was so clear we could see the bottom eight feet below. The bottom was sandy and grassy, which made setting our 60-pound CQR anchor challenging. Once we were satisfied that the anchor would hold us for the night, John donned his wet suit, fins, mask, and snorkel and dove on anchor just to be sure. By 9PM we were asleep. John awoke at midnight to ensure we were not dragging the anchor as the winds picked up and clocked around to the east. All was well. John awoke again at 3:30AM. This time we were dragging. In fact, we had moved backward about three boat lengths. Thank goodness no boats were behind us and the east wind kept us from dragging aground. We were not in danger of running into anything, so we decided not to move the boat or reset the anchor. It seemed like the anchor had dug in again as we did not drag any further. John kept one eye open for the rest of the night. We had experienced another first that we had heard so much about, the anchor dragging.
As soon as we saw the first signs of daylight, we weighed anchor and headed for Marathon and, specifically, Boot Key Harbor. The winds were steady at 16-18 knots. With all the sails unfurled we maintained speeds of 8+ knots in two- to three- foot seas and 20 feet of water. We were frustrated at the tremendous number of lobster traps in the channel, which were difficult to see and challenging to avoid in the waves. Crab and lobster traps have small floats attached to thick lines attached to traps that sit on the bottom. Had we hit a trap, the line would likely have become wrapped around our propeller and pulled the shaft out of the boat causing us to take on water and possibly sink. With thousands of traps along the Keys it is hard to imagine there are any lobsters alive!
By 1:30PM on Tuesday we were pulling into Boot Key Harbor and Marathon Marina. NOAA weather forecasted a cold front and storms by Tuesday night or Wednesday, so we were delighted to be docked before the front arrived. We had finally arrived at the destination for which we set sail in October. Blue skies, 80-degree temperatures, light breezes, blue-green waters, manatees, mangrove trees, tiki bars, hundreds of fellow cruisers…we had seen it all in our minds for ten years, and the Keys are as breathtaking as we imagined them to be.
Saturday, January 3, 2009
A Holly Jolly Christmas Week in Miami Beach
“Nothing is ever as over as Christmas.” That’s a quote from John’s mom that sums up our feelings yesterday. Yesterday morning, John and I took down the Christmas lights and put away all of the cards that had made our salon so merry. Two weeks ago, we ran 130 feet of white lights from the top of the mast forward and aft. People could enjoy the lights for miles around, because our mast is 63.5-feet high. Fellow cruisers anchored nearby have visited us in their dinghies just to tell us how much they enjoy our lights, which made us smile broadly and swell with pride.
Christmas morning aboard Island Chariot was a bit like Christmas morning in Whoville before the Grinch returned everything he stole from the Whos. We did not have a Christmas tree or stockings or plates full of decorative and delicious cookies. Gifts we gave and received were simple and meaningful. Holiday Kleenex boxes, two strands of white LED lights and Christmas cards from friends and family on both sides of the salon created a festive atmosphere. Without the usual hustle and stress, John and I had time to reflect on the meaning of Christmas. Many people call themselves “seekers” of God. Actually, God seeks us and did so in a major way by sending his only son to save us. He’s right here. All we have to do is accept Him and His amazing love for us. No further God-seeking is required. And, we paused as we do each day in moments of gratitude to name everything for which we are grateful at that time. Although we missed our families, we felt joyful and peaceful.
Later on Christmas Day we prepared a tossed salad and an appetizer of cheeses and crackers for nine of us, then drove the dinghy over to Hale Kai for a cruisers’ Christmas dinner. Hale Kai is a large Beneteau sailboat piloted by Richard and Sharon. We think Richard may be in the witness protection program. Here is the evidence: He changes his appearance every two years or so, has Delaware as the hailing port of his boat, lives in the mountains, and keeps his boat in Oriental, NC. I know what you’re thinking. I could be describing almost any cruiser! At any rate, we were an eclectic mix of people who had a delightful time together despite the fact that we would make an unlikely dinner party on land. I’ll say it again; the people we meet are the best part of cruising.
We all enjoyed each other so much on Christmas that we did some South Beach sightseeing together the next day, walking to the Holocaust Memorial and the Botanical Gardens before stopping for refreshments on Lincoln Road. The Holocaust Memorial recapped the horrors of what human beings are capable of doing to one another. I was glad we started the day there. My spirits were lifted again admiring the beauty of the flowers, shrubs and trees at the Botanical Gardens.
A few days later, we took a dinghy trip up the Miami River under bright sunshine and blue skies. We are used to creeks in rural settings. The Miami River feels like a creek; however, it runs through downtown Miami. It was strange seeing skyscrapers on the cement banks of the narrow river.
As we crossed the Biscayne Bay on our way back to Island Chariot, we fished a cane out of the water. It had a golden dragon’s head at the top with gold designs down the black cane. The owner had placed a return address label near the top, most of which was still intact. It was our pleasure to look up the owner’s phone number online and inform her that we would ship the cane to her in Pittsburgh. We called her to ensure she was still at that address. She was amazed that we found the cane and that we were returning it to her.
Earlier in December soon after our arrival in Miami Beach, we found a man’s designer dress shirt in the street still wrapped in plastic and on a hanger from leaving the dry cleaners. It was a Saturday night and the dry cleaners was closed. On Monday, we brought the shirt back to the dry cleaners. The numbered tag on it enabled the staff to identify its owner. They, too, were amazed that we would return the item. Isn’t that a sad commentary?
Then, again, is the story of my sunglasses. On the day we went to Parrot Jungle I left them in the shower room at our "gated, exclusive yacht club". Thirty minutes later when I realized what I had done, I went back into the shower room only to find them gone. I checked with the office staff and no one turned the sunglasses in to lost and found. So, I brought the case into the shower room with a note telling the person who found the glasses to take the case to protect them since I did not need it any more. But, I digress...
Wrapping up the holiday week, we took pleasure in a quiet New Year’s Eve celebration. Being lovers of sci-fi movies, John and I watched Transformers on Blu-Ray DVD, and then switched to the FOX network celebration in Las Vegas. The FOX celebration took place at the Mirage Hotel where we stayed when we were married in Las Vegas. Daughtry and David Cook performed, both of whom I enjoy, which is what made us choose that particular TV party. At midnight, we emerged from the salon up into the cockpit of Island Chariot and reveled in fireworks surrounding us from downtown Miami to South Beach.
The next morning brought us the Tournament of Roses Parade followed by much college football. The highlight of New Year’s Day was watching my alma mater win the Gator Bowl. It has been so long since the Huskers have had a winning team!
Normally, my resolutions, affirmations, and goals for the year ahead would be complete by now. I'm holding over last year's affirmation "I'm feeling energetic and lean weighing 118!" for another year. That's all I have so far. The problem with that goal wrapped in an affirmation is that I'm feeling too energetic and great weighing 128. Anyway, John and I decided that January 1 is an arbitrary date. We agreed to revisit our goals for 2009 and beyond on February 8. No, there is no particular reason for the date.
Today we joined several others at Sunset Harbour Yacht Club in celebrating Clare’s birthday. John met Clare and Steve when he brought our boat home for the first time. Part I of her party included mimosas and danishs at 10AM. Part II is a bar-b-que at 6PM. What a delightful way to spend a beautiful Miami Beach January day!
It is hard to believe our month in Miami Beach is up on Monday. It feels like the time-space continuum has folded. We can’t have been here for 31 days!
Marathon here we come!
Christmas morning aboard Island Chariot was a bit like Christmas morning in Whoville before the Grinch returned everything he stole from the Whos. We did not have a Christmas tree or stockings or plates full of decorative and delicious cookies. Gifts we gave and received were simple and meaningful. Holiday Kleenex boxes, two strands of white LED lights and Christmas cards from friends and family on both sides of the salon created a festive atmosphere. Without the usual hustle and stress, John and I had time to reflect on the meaning of Christmas. Many people call themselves “seekers” of God. Actually, God seeks us and did so in a major way by sending his only son to save us. He’s right here. All we have to do is accept Him and His amazing love for us. No further God-seeking is required. And, we paused as we do each day in moments of gratitude to name everything for which we are grateful at that time. Although we missed our families, we felt joyful and peaceful.
Later on Christmas Day we prepared a tossed salad and an appetizer of cheeses and crackers for nine of us, then drove the dinghy over to Hale Kai for a cruisers’ Christmas dinner. Hale Kai is a large Beneteau sailboat piloted by Richard and Sharon. We think Richard may be in the witness protection program. Here is the evidence: He changes his appearance every two years or so, has Delaware as the hailing port of his boat, lives in the mountains, and keeps his boat in Oriental, NC. I know what you’re thinking. I could be describing almost any cruiser! At any rate, we were an eclectic mix of people who had a delightful time together despite the fact that we would make an unlikely dinner party on land. I’ll say it again; the people we meet are the best part of cruising.
We all enjoyed each other so much on Christmas that we did some South Beach sightseeing together the next day, walking to the Holocaust Memorial and the Botanical Gardens before stopping for refreshments on Lincoln Road. The Holocaust Memorial recapped the horrors of what human beings are capable of doing to one another. I was glad we started the day there. My spirits were lifted again admiring the beauty of the flowers, shrubs and trees at the Botanical Gardens.
A few days later, we took a dinghy trip up the Miami River under bright sunshine and blue skies. We are used to creeks in rural settings. The Miami River feels like a creek; however, it runs through downtown Miami. It was strange seeing skyscrapers on the cement banks of the narrow river.
As we crossed the Biscayne Bay on our way back to Island Chariot, we fished a cane out of the water. It had a golden dragon’s head at the top with gold designs down the black cane. The owner had placed a return address label near the top, most of which was still intact. It was our pleasure to look up the owner’s phone number online and inform her that we would ship the cane to her in Pittsburgh. We called her to ensure she was still at that address. She was amazed that we found the cane and that we were returning it to her.
Earlier in December soon after our arrival in Miami Beach, we found a man’s designer dress shirt in the street still wrapped in plastic and on a hanger from leaving the dry cleaners. It was a Saturday night and the dry cleaners was closed. On Monday, we brought the shirt back to the dry cleaners. The numbered tag on it enabled the staff to identify its owner. They, too, were amazed that we would return the item. Isn’t that a sad commentary?
Then, again, is the story of my sunglasses. On the day we went to Parrot Jungle I left them in the shower room at our "gated, exclusive yacht club". Thirty minutes later when I realized what I had done, I went back into the shower room only to find them gone. I checked with the office staff and no one turned the sunglasses in to lost and found. So, I brought the case into the shower room with a note telling the person who found the glasses to take the case to protect them since I did not need it any more. But, I digress...
Wrapping up the holiday week, we took pleasure in a quiet New Year’s Eve celebration. Being lovers of sci-fi movies, John and I watched Transformers on Blu-Ray DVD, and then switched to the FOX network celebration in Las Vegas. The FOX celebration took place at the Mirage Hotel where we stayed when we were married in Las Vegas. Daughtry and David Cook performed, both of whom I enjoy, which is what made us choose that particular TV party. At midnight, we emerged from the salon up into the cockpit of Island Chariot and reveled in fireworks surrounding us from downtown Miami to South Beach.
The next morning brought us the Tournament of Roses Parade followed by much college football. The highlight of New Year’s Day was watching my alma mater win the Gator Bowl. It has been so long since the Huskers have had a winning team!
Normally, my resolutions, affirmations, and goals for the year ahead would be complete by now. I'm holding over last year's affirmation "I'm feeling energetic and lean weighing 118!" for another year. That's all I have so far. The problem with that goal wrapped in an affirmation is that I'm feeling too energetic and great weighing 128. Anyway, John and I decided that January 1 is an arbitrary date. We agreed to revisit our goals for 2009 and beyond on February 8. No, there is no particular reason for the date.
Today we joined several others at Sunset Harbour Yacht Club in celebrating Clare’s birthday. John met Clare and Steve when he brought our boat home for the first time. Part I of her party included mimosas and danishs at 10AM. Part II is a bar-b-que at 6PM. What a delightful way to spend a beautiful Miami Beach January day!
It is hard to believe our month in Miami Beach is up on Monday. It feels like the time-space continuum has folded. We can’t have been here for 31 days!
Marathon here we come!
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