We had planned to stay at Sunset Harbour Yacht Club for two days, and then continue to Marathon, FL. Two days came and went and we were not ready to leave Miami Beach. In fact, we were enjoying Miami Beach so much we decided to stay for a month. Christmas and New Year’s Day in sunny Miami Beach – Woo hoo!
It’s been over two weeks now. Our website www.islandchariot.com has photos showing some of our activities. Every day I think, “Today, I’ll blog!”, and then I do something else like watch manatees or read a book instead. Every time I finish the books on board someone gives me another or recommends one. Then I can’t wait to get to it. The latest is One Cosmos Under God, by Robert W. Godwin. Awesome!
When we’re not visiting the Parrot Jungle, or having a fabulous dinner out, or exploring the area in the dinghy, or visiting friends in the nearby anchorages (by dinghy), our days are simple. Even the most mundane chores at home on land (e.g., doing the dishes together, …) are special while we’re cruising.
Here is a snapshot of how we spend a day in port in Miami Beach on Island Chariot. We awaken when we’re done sleeping, one of the best parts of staying in one place for a while. John and I enjoy cups of French roast coffee together. Elvis Ann joins us for our second cups. Our breakfast staples are cold cereal, oatmeal, eggs, and pancakes, which we eat in a rotation of sorts. We clean up the galley and the dishes, and then move on to other chores. This morning John is washing the boat. I am coaching clients.
I haven’t heard John in a while, so I peek up through a hatch like a human periscope to see where he is. I spot him polishing the chrome at the bow and admire what great care he takes of Island Chariot. Lunchtime rolls around and I wonder what John would like to eat. I peek out of the hatch again and find John in exactly the same position, hand on the rag and rag on the chrome, but gaze focused across the channel. I look back at Bayou, the mega-yacht behind us. She is listing to port from the weight of the crew polishing the port bow, rags in their hands, but gazes focused across the channel. I follow their gazes. A modeling shoot is happening again across the canal from Island Chariot. Bikini-clad, bronze-skin, ample-breasted girls are posing on the 50-plus-foot Sunseeker. All that posing looks like hard work. Our port-side chrome has never sparkled more brightly. I consider calling across the canal to ask them to finish the shoot on the yacht club side of the canal so our starboard-side chrome could sparkle, too!
After lunch, we don our bathing suits and go for a swim. John brings all of our snorkeling gear so we can “preflight” it in the swimming pool before we take a snorkeling jaunt. We wriggle into our wetsuits, booties, gloves, fins, masks, and snorkels, and then jump into the pool to find treasures on the bottom. All the gear is in fine working order. We doff our gear and continue swimming. Winds from the east make perfect conditions for “croc races”. We retrieve our crocs and hold them against the east side of the pool. John says “ready, set, go” and we release our crocs. (Yes, we were the only ones in the pool that day!) John’s right croc takes an early lead, then turns back toward the east wall. Both of mine start drifting ever so slowly, until they pick up the breeze and go flying across the pool. John’s are still back at the east wall. I am the “croc racing” champion, at least for that day!
We clean up from swimming and do another chore or two – clean Elvis Ann’s cage, oil the bike chains, vacuum the salon, shop at Publix, …
We stop our chores and enjoy a glass of pinot noir in the cockpit as the sun lowers in the sky. We decide to go out for dinner. I say to John, “I want to learn how to meditate.”. He laughs and shakes his head. I say “What?” – you know, that why-are-you-looking-at-me-like-I-have-a fern-for-a-head kind of “what?”. He says I am always working on myself. He asks me why I want to learn to meditate. I tell him it’s because I want to reach spiritual enlightenment. I tell him about the monk whose brain the neurologists scanned. (I love it when science and spirituality collide). His brain did not have the red and yellow spikes that the rest of our noisy brains have. He slipped into a meditative state and his scan showed the cool “blue pearl” in the middle of his brain – the rest was quiet. I explained that people who meditate and achieve spiritual enlightenment experience a blue electricity from the bottom of their spines out their heads, and that each religious tradition has a different name for it. John laughs and tells me that he achieves blue electricity when he eats at Taco Loco. He gets it at the bottom of his spine and must bite down on a cold cloth…
…So my brother calls later that day and we have wonderful conversation about their preparing for Baby. He asks me how it’s going with John and me being no more than 50 feet apart all of the time, especially after so much time apart before John retired from the USMC. I tell him all is well, situation normal.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Hey! This Boat Has Sails!
On Friday, December 5, we felt fulfilled when we unfurled the sails for our first day on the Atlantic Ocean. Finally, Island Chariot had a chance to stretch her legs. We began the day in Vero Beach. At 0700, Bernie was on deck to say goodbye and to assist us with our rafting lines. The previous evening we told him we thought we would leave at 0600. He grinned and let us know that while we were “working on our marriage” he was on deck waiting to see us off. We let loose the lines to Australia 31, released the mooring line, waved to Bernie and closed the chapter on Vero Beach for our southbound cruise.
We sailed out Fort Pierce Inlet by 0900. John entered the Lake Worth Inlet outside buoy as our waypoint in the chart plotter. With winds from the west and seas only two feet, we sat back and let Eric the autopilot do the driving. What a relaxing day compared to life on the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway! The boat rocked gently as we glided across the sea watching the Florida coastline pass. The Gulf Stream is not far offshore from Florida, so we stayed within two miles of the coast. By 1600, we had arrived in Lake Worth (Palm Beach).
Knowing our stay in Lake Worth would be for mere hours, we elected to drop the anchor for the night just beyond channel marker #8. The anchorage was large and although it was full of boats we still found a Chariot-sized spot. At 0230 the next morning we found ourselves awake. At 0400 we decided to have coffee and prepare to weigh anchor. Of course, this meant that John Rahm, human windlass, would be on the job again. (I may have mentioned previously that in addition to waiting on weather we were waiting in Vero Beach for a new switching unit for the windlass. However, when we learned that Lighthouse had not yet sent the item, we decided to continue south and have them send it to us later.) You may have noted the time of day and thought to yourself that the sun does not rise (I know, I know, it’s really the earth rotating…) until 0700 these days. You would be correct. And, the moon had set by 0100. The anchorage was eerily dark and quiet as John pulled up our 60-pound CQR anchor and 50 feet of chain with ease and I drove us into the channel toward the inlet. Eerily quiet that is, until we passed another sailboat at anchor. The captain was preparing to weigh anchor and called out to me asking where we were headed. We had a brief cheery exchange, and then I handed the wheel over to John. Thanks to that friendly man, I was now wide awake and ready to assist John with navigating the inlet back out to sea. As we passed the final inlet buoy and made the turn south along the coast, we heard Muffin on Antares on the VHF announcing their entrance into the inlet and heading out to sea. They were only five minutes behind us. We enjoyed meeting Will and Muffin at the Vero Beach Thanksgiving dinner and had not seen them in the anchorage. We got on the radio and had a brief and cheery conversation with Muffin. They were heading across to the Bahamas. We wished each other smooth sailing.
In the dark of the early morning, all we could hear was the wind in our sails and the slap of the ocean on the Chariot as we gently rocked up and down across the water. Winds were from the west and seas were about two feet. Once again, John entered a waypoint into our chart plotter and Eric the autopilot held the line south toward Miami for us. We sat back and took in the millions of stars sparkling in the sky like diamonds, and the lights dotting the shoreline. At 0630, we began to see light on the horizon. By 0700, rays of sunlight shone through the clouds in the distance. I must have taken 100 pictures as the sun rose. At that moment it felt like one of the more beautiful things I had ever witnessed. The sun seemed bigger and brighter than ever as it emerged from the water. We welcomed the light and the opportunity to see without radar.
After two perfect days on the water, with about 90 minutes left on our journey to Miami Beach, the winds shifted to the south. This meant the winds were right on our nose. Rather than tack back and forth, we took in the genoa (headsail) and ran the engine in order to hold our direct line to the Government Cut (inlet to Miami).
Did I mention that it was Saturday now? At each inlet we passed along the way, fishing boats swarmed like black flies in Georgia. Coming into Miami harbor was crazy! We entered the inlet only to find a container ship fast approaching our stern. John quickly did a 180-degree turn, allowed the ship to pass us, and then slipped in behind the ship. I used the opportunity to take a nice close-up picture of the ship for our website. Large powerboats flew by us at breakneck speeds rocking us like weebles in their rooster-tail wakes. We had definitely crossed a cultural line. No wake management here. Inside the harbor, high-speed powerboats all around made us feel like we were on the Autobahn. We were tossed about like it was Sea State 5. John knew exactly where he was going, which helped our comfort level. We were heading for Sunset Harbour Yacht Club, the place where he picked up the Chariot when we bought her. We pulled smoothly into our slip and settled in for a cold beverage. It was 1600.
Once settled, we noticed how tired we were and how delicious pizza sounded at that moment. Danny, who greeted us at our slip, recommended Pizza Rustica and gave us the telephone number. About an hour later, our pie arrived hot and cheesy, a true Italian-style pizza. Our minds drifted back to the extreme pleasure of eating in Sicily. Who knew that you can get a “thin and chewy” pizza crust in the United States?! We gorged ourselves and went to sleep, miraculously heartburn-free.
We sailed out Fort Pierce Inlet by 0900. John entered the Lake Worth Inlet outside buoy as our waypoint in the chart plotter. With winds from the west and seas only two feet, we sat back and let Eric the autopilot do the driving. What a relaxing day compared to life on the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway! The boat rocked gently as we glided across the sea watching the Florida coastline pass. The Gulf Stream is not far offshore from Florida, so we stayed within two miles of the coast. By 1600, we had arrived in Lake Worth (Palm Beach).
Knowing our stay in Lake Worth would be for mere hours, we elected to drop the anchor for the night just beyond channel marker #8. The anchorage was large and although it was full of boats we still found a Chariot-sized spot. At 0230 the next morning we found ourselves awake. At 0400 we decided to have coffee and prepare to weigh anchor. Of course, this meant that John Rahm, human windlass, would be on the job again. (I may have mentioned previously that in addition to waiting on weather we were waiting in Vero Beach for a new switching unit for the windlass. However, when we learned that Lighthouse had not yet sent the item, we decided to continue south and have them send it to us later.) You may have noted the time of day and thought to yourself that the sun does not rise (I know, I know, it’s really the earth rotating…) until 0700 these days. You would be correct. And, the moon had set by 0100. The anchorage was eerily dark and quiet as John pulled up our 60-pound CQR anchor and 50 feet of chain with ease and I drove us into the channel toward the inlet. Eerily quiet that is, until we passed another sailboat at anchor. The captain was preparing to weigh anchor and called out to me asking where we were headed. We had a brief cheery exchange, and then I handed the wheel over to John. Thanks to that friendly man, I was now wide awake and ready to assist John with navigating the inlet back out to sea. As we passed the final inlet buoy and made the turn south along the coast, we heard Muffin on Antares on the VHF announcing their entrance into the inlet and heading out to sea. They were only five minutes behind us. We enjoyed meeting Will and Muffin at the Vero Beach Thanksgiving dinner and had not seen them in the anchorage. We got on the radio and had a brief and cheery conversation with Muffin. They were heading across to the Bahamas. We wished each other smooth sailing.
In the dark of the early morning, all we could hear was the wind in our sails and the slap of the ocean on the Chariot as we gently rocked up and down across the water. Winds were from the west and seas were about two feet. Once again, John entered a waypoint into our chart plotter and Eric the autopilot held the line south toward Miami for us. We sat back and took in the millions of stars sparkling in the sky like diamonds, and the lights dotting the shoreline. At 0630, we began to see light on the horizon. By 0700, rays of sunlight shone through the clouds in the distance. I must have taken 100 pictures as the sun rose. At that moment it felt like one of the more beautiful things I had ever witnessed. The sun seemed bigger and brighter than ever as it emerged from the water. We welcomed the light and the opportunity to see without radar.
After two perfect days on the water, with about 90 minutes left on our journey to Miami Beach, the winds shifted to the south. This meant the winds were right on our nose. Rather than tack back and forth, we took in the genoa (headsail) and ran the engine in order to hold our direct line to the Government Cut (inlet to Miami).
Did I mention that it was Saturday now? At each inlet we passed along the way, fishing boats swarmed like black flies in Georgia. Coming into Miami harbor was crazy! We entered the inlet only to find a container ship fast approaching our stern. John quickly did a 180-degree turn, allowed the ship to pass us, and then slipped in behind the ship. I used the opportunity to take a nice close-up picture of the ship for our website. Large powerboats flew by us at breakneck speeds rocking us like weebles in their rooster-tail wakes. We had definitely crossed a cultural line. No wake management here. Inside the harbor, high-speed powerboats all around made us feel like we were on the Autobahn. We were tossed about like it was Sea State 5. John knew exactly where he was going, which helped our comfort level. We were heading for Sunset Harbour Yacht Club, the place where he picked up the Chariot when we bought her. We pulled smoothly into our slip and settled in for a cold beverage. It was 1600.
Once settled, we noticed how tired we were and how delicious pizza sounded at that moment. Danny, who greeted us at our slip, recommended Pizza Rustica and gave us the telephone number. About an hour later, our pie arrived hot and cheesy, a true Italian-style pizza. Our minds drifted back to the extreme pleasure of eating in Sicily. Who knew that you can get a “thin and chewy” pizza crust in the United States?! We gorged ourselves and went to sleep, miraculously heartburn-free.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Australia 31
Our final three days in Vero Beach were amazing, mostly because we were rafted on our mooring to Bernie and Yvonne Katchor. Bernie and Yvonne are Australian and have been cruising on a shoestring for about 45 years. Their boat, Australia 31, is the floating crossroads for ingenuity and economy. I cannot remember the last time I met two such charismatic people. What makes them so special is that they like people. As they explore countries around the world, they genuinely enjoy the people they meet. In fact, Bernie was moved to write Around the Next Bend, a book about their experiences with the people of Guyana and Venezuela. People are more important than anything else.
Perhaps this story will illustrate my point. Bernie and Yvonne needed to have their engine propeller balanced. Their original propeller was stolen in Venezuela five years earlier when their boat was stripped at a boatyard there. When telling the story they are matter of fact and express their good fortune at not being on board at the time. Others had been shot in the knees for resisting such intruders. For the past five years, they have been cruising with a make-shift propeller they were able to find and cut down to size so they could leave Venezuela. Now the propeller needed to be balanced at the very least. Bernie, at age 67, was not about to let someone charge him a fortune to do the simple job of removing the propeller. So, he donned his short-sleeved, short-legged wet suit and climbed down into the 65-degree water. John assisted him, mostly by watching for Bernie’s bubbles. Bernie had a bucket full of tools attached to a rope and in the water with him – a 49-cent WalMart-special type of bucket, plastic with a thin metal handle and about five years on it. As Bernie handed the bucket up to John, John grabbed the rope and the handle promptly separated from the bucket sending the bucket and tools straight to the bottom. John was crushed. Bernie had a lead line ready and dropped it into the water where the bucket fell so it would be easier to find the bucket again later as our boats moved around the mooring. Having removed the propeller, Bernie climbed back onto his boat, shivering and blue from being in the cold water for 30 minutes. If he was upset about the tools we did not know it. The next day he went back in the water to find the tools. He marked a line every three feet and swam in a circle feeling around on the bottom. The water was too murky to see. About nine feet from the lead line, he found the tools all in the bucket on the bottom. A lot of people would have been upset either in general or at John, thinking about the potential cost to replace all of those tools. A propeller puller alone could cost $75. Not Bernie and Yvonne. John was more important than the tools. These things happen sometimes - just another daily episode in the challenges of cruising. This was another fine example of it’s not what happens to you it’s how you handle it.
Later that evening, Bernie and Yvonne invited us to dinner on their boat so we could meet some of their friends who live in Vero Beach. Many cruisers settle in Vero Beach when they are ready to trade their sailboats for watching the grandkids, reading the paper, and walking the dog. They call themselves Cruisers Living on Dirt (CLODs) and meet for breakfast on Wednesday mornings.
During dinner, we learned the fine art of eating delicacies aboard. Did you know that all seaweed is edible? We were treated to dulse, a purple, salty sea lettuce. Eating it raw is like eating beef jerky. Bernie likes it better toasted, so he pulled out a blow-torch style lighter and roasted it like a marshmallow. We agree. Seaweed is definitely better toasted. We also learned that mushrooms we find can be edible. Bernie and Yvonne asked a park ranger if the ones growing in that particular park were the edible kind. He was not sure. They might be, or they might be the kind that look like the edible kind, but are toxic. So, Bernie ate one to find out. After 24 hours when he did not get sick, those mushrooms became part of their diet. Bernie thought the dogs in the park were what gave the mushrooms their rich flavor.
In addition to meeting former cruisers, through Bernie and Yvonne we met fellow first-time cruisers John and Elle. For a night they rafted up on our other side. Everyone came to dinner on Island Chariot. What fun! Bernie and Yvonne shared stories of the beaches in different cultures. In other parts of the world, people are more relaxed about their bodies. Nude beaches are commonplace. Bernie expressed that he had gained a bit of weight and was having trouble seeing “over the horizon”. With a grin he reported that he had to ask Yvonne – “Yvonne, am I naked?”.
Bernie and Yvonne are rich in every way that matters. When it comes to stuff, they do not have much, yet share everything they have. What a wonderful place this world would be if, like the Katchors, we all saw the world through the eyes of our hearts instead of the eyes in our heads.
Perhaps this story will illustrate my point. Bernie and Yvonne needed to have their engine propeller balanced. Their original propeller was stolen in Venezuela five years earlier when their boat was stripped at a boatyard there. When telling the story they are matter of fact and express their good fortune at not being on board at the time. Others had been shot in the knees for resisting such intruders. For the past five years, they have been cruising with a make-shift propeller they were able to find and cut down to size so they could leave Venezuela. Now the propeller needed to be balanced at the very least. Bernie, at age 67, was not about to let someone charge him a fortune to do the simple job of removing the propeller. So, he donned his short-sleeved, short-legged wet suit and climbed down into the 65-degree water. John assisted him, mostly by watching for Bernie’s bubbles. Bernie had a bucket full of tools attached to a rope and in the water with him – a 49-cent WalMart-special type of bucket, plastic with a thin metal handle and about five years on it. As Bernie handed the bucket up to John, John grabbed the rope and the handle promptly separated from the bucket sending the bucket and tools straight to the bottom. John was crushed. Bernie had a lead line ready and dropped it into the water where the bucket fell so it would be easier to find the bucket again later as our boats moved around the mooring. Having removed the propeller, Bernie climbed back onto his boat, shivering and blue from being in the cold water for 30 minutes. If he was upset about the tools we did not know it. The next day he went back in the water to find the tools. He marked a line every three feet and swam in a circle feeling around on the bottom. The water was too murky to see. About nine feet from the lead line, he found the tools all in the bucket on the bottom. A lot of people would have been upset either in general or at John, thinking about the potential cost to replace all of those tools. A propeller puller alone could cost $75. Not Bernie and Yvonne. John was more important than the tools. These things happen sometimes - just another daily episode in the challenges of cruising. This was another fine example of it’s not what happens to you it’s how you handle it.
Later that evening, Bernie and Yvonne invited us to dinner on their boat so we could meet some of their friends who live in Vero Beach. Many cruisers settle in Vero Beach when they are ready to trade their sailboats for watching the grandkids, reading the paper, and walking the dog. They call themselves Cruisers Living on Dirt (CLODs) and meet for breakfast on Wednesday mornings.
During dinner, we learned the fine art of eating delicacies aboard. Did you know that all seaweed is edible? We were treated to dulse, a purple, salty sea lettuce. Eating it raw is like eating beef jerky. Bernie likes it better toasted, so he pulled out a blow-torch style lighter and roasted it like a marshmallow. We agree. Seaweed is definitely better toasted. We also learned that mushrooms we find can be edible. Bernie and Yvonne asked a park ranger if the ones growing in that particular park were the edible kind. He was not sure. They might be, or they might be the kind that look like the edible kind, but are toxic. So, Bernie ate one to find out. After 24 hours when he did not get sick, those mushrooms became part of their diet. Bernie thought the dogs in the park were what gave the mushrooms their rich flavor.
In addition to meeting former cruisers, through Bernie and Yvonne we met fellow first-time cruisers John and Elle. For a night they rafted up on our other side. Everyone came to dinner on Island Chariot. What fun! Bernie and Yvonne shared stories of the beaches in different cultures. In other parts of the world, people are more relaxed about their bodies. Nude beaches are commonplace. Bernie expressed that he had gained a bit of weight and was having trouble seeing “over the horizon”. With a grin he reported that he had to ask Yvonne – “Yvonne, am I naked?”.
Bernie and Yvonne are rich in every way that matters. When it comes to stuff, they do not have much, yet share everything they have. What a wonderful place this world would be if, like the Katchors, we all saw the world through the eyes of our hearts instead of the eyes in our heads.
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Waiting on Weather
How time flies! Already we have been swinging on a mooring in Vero Beach for seven days. Yesterday the couples on the two boats sharing our mooring departed south, so now we are the solitary boat on the mooring. Nice.
The sky is dark today. Several times it has opened dumping torrential downpours on the harbor. The wind is howling with gusts to 40 mph. John, Elvis Ann, and I are safe in the salon, enjoying listening to the raindrops pelting the Chariot. Yesterday we moved the boat to pump out our holding tank and fill up our gas tank. And, I washed another 25 pounds of clothes. Before leaving Oriental, we provisioned as if we would be out to sea for four months. So, we have nowhere to be and nothing that must be done. Nice. The tornado watch expires at 5PM. It is 4PM now.
That was strange. I just heard a knock on the side of our boat. Who would be out in this weather? I’m back. It was Bernie from Australia standing up in his RIB in the rain alerting me that they would be rafting up to us and apologizing profusely for their timing. They had been waiting for the storm to pass. However, when it looked like it would never end, they decided they needed to come in for the night. And, they are meeting friends they haven’t seen in 10 years, one of whom has a fatal illness, and they only have a short time together here. So, of course, they needed to get here! I went below to get John. Miraculously, the winds calmed and the rain stopped. I watched as Yvonne, Bernie’s wife, motored their boat gracefully down the channel, passed the port side of the Chariot, around the back and along our starboard side. Although our boat was moving, she settled their boat gently beside us. We helped secure their lines and that was that. The entire evolution took about five minutes. What pros! They are approaching their seventies and have been cruising since their twenties. I can’t wait to hear their stories tomorrow evening! Nice. Yvonne may be my newest hero.
Interestingly, the rain is pouring again.
The sky is dark today. Several times it has opened dumping torrential downpours on the harbor. The wind is howling with gusts to 40 mph. John, Elvis Ann, and I are safe in the salon, enjoying listening to the raindrops pelting the Chariot. Yesterday we moved the boat to pump out our holding tank and fill up our gas tank. And, I washed another 25 pounds of clothes. Before leaving Oriental, we provisioned as if we would be out to sea for four months. So, we have nowhere to be and nothing that must be done. Nice. The tornado watch expires at 5PM. It is 4PM now.
That was strange. I just heard a knock on the side of our boat. Who would be out in this weather? I’m back. It was Bernie from Australia standing up in his RIB in the rain alerting me that they would be rafting up to us and apologizing profusely for their timing. They had been waiting for the storm to pass. However, when it looked like it would never end, they decided they needed to come in for the night. And, they are meeting friends they haven’t seen in 10 years, one of whom has a fatal illness, and they only have a short time together here. So, of course, they needed to get here! I went below to get John. Miraculously, the winds calmed and the rain stopped. I watched as Yvonne, Bernie’s wife, motored their boat gracefully down the channel, passed the port side of the Chariot, around the back and along our starboard side. Although our boat was moving, she settled their boat gently beside us. We helped secure their lines and that was that. The entire evolution took about five minutes. What pros! They are approaching their seventies and have been cruising since their twenties. I can’t wait to hear their stories tomorrow evening! Nice. Yvonne may be my newest hero.
Interestingly, the rain is pouring again.
Friday, November 28, 2008
Ve(lc)ro Beach
After a stop in Melbourne on Sunday night, we headed for Vero Beach on Monday morning. Our friends on Toucan, Solveig II, and Serenity were already here. The Vero Beach Municipal Marina mooring field is a crossroads for cruisers. Many people wait here for a good weather window to make the trek across to the Bahamas or on the outside to Fort Lauderdale. The price is right at $11.66/day including tax. The city packs us in two to three per mooring.
As we pulled into the mooring field, our friends on Toucan, Gary and Lil, called us on the radio and invited us to dinner on their boat when we were settled. How thoughtful! Dinner was delicious and it was a special treat not to have to make dinner after moving the boat all day. Gary and Lil are among the few cruisers who are our ages, and Gary retired from the USAF, so we have found a lot in common.
On Tuesday, we did boat chores, however, I have already forgotten what we did! That evening, Gary and Lil came to dinner on Island Chariot. They met Elvis Ann for the first time. Elvis Ann really took to Gary. He was a very good sport about it!
On Wednesday, we ventured out into town on the Go-Line, the free bus system around Vero Beach. Having a ride anywhere on land has become very special to us. The #1 bus stops at the marina and cruisers pile on board. Cruisers can be spotted all over town by their t-shirts, hats, sandals, and backpacks. Like Marines, we just start recognizing each other. Our bus stopped in the middle of West Marine, Publix, the Book Center, Panera Bread, and Carvel (for ice cream) – heaven on earth! Knowing my awesome culinary skills and liking my fellow cruisers, we decided to buy cranberry sauce at Publix to share at the Thanksgiving potluck. Provisions in John’s backpack, tummies full of turkey sandwiches and ice cream, and a $3.87 lightbulb later we were back on the Go-Line headed for the marina.
Back at the marina, we had received our first mail. What fun we had sorting through five weeks of mail, minus the junk mail which we pre-sorted over the telephone with John’s dad. We had all of our mail forwarded to him. He and Dorie have been patiently waiting for us to give them the first address where we can receive mail. Vero Beach is the first place we knew for sure we would stop and stay for a few days. Back on the boat, John devoured his Cruising World and Practical Sailor magazines. And, we paid a few ubiquitous bills.
On Thanksgiving Day, temperatures were a balmy 69 degrees, the sun shined brightly, and the sky was clear blue. At 1PM, about 100 cruisers met on the south side of the marina for a potluck of turkey and all the trimmings. Food was plentiful enough for seconds. Our friends had all elected to move on during the great Thanksgiving weather, so we made new friends. We enjoy hearing stories and getting tips from experienced cruisers. At 3PM, with our bellies full, we rolled back into the RIB (rigid inflatable boat), which is our car equivalent, and headed back to the boat.
This morning was thrilling! Three manatees swam for about 30 minutes just off of the back and side of our boat. John and I took a manatee tour years ago and saw one. Today, minding our own business enjoying the beautiful day we were treated to seeing three. They are adorable creatures in their massiveness.
Already we have learned why people call this “Velcro Beach”. The beach is beautiful and the city has everything a person needs. We planned to participate in the cruisers Thanksgiving potluck, and then leave this morning (Friday). After seeing the weather forecast for the next several days, we decided to stay here and wait for the front to move through. So did the other people on our mooring. Now we are waiting for a new “yellow box” for our windlass, which we expect to arrive on Wednesday. The “yellow box” is a switching unit that will alleviate John acting as the human windlass the next time we decide to anchor. We think this would be a good place from which to send our Christmas greetings, too. Our destination is still Marathon – really!
As we pulled into the mooring field, our friends on Toucan, Gary and Lil, called us on the radio and invited us to dinner on their boat when we were settled. How thoughtful! Dinner was delicious and it was a special treat not to have to make dinner after moving the boat all day. Gary and Lil are among the few cruisers who are our ages, and Gary retired from the USAF, so we have found a lot in common.
On Tuesday, we did boat chores, however, I have already forgotten what we did! That evening, Gary and Lil came to dinner on Island Chariot. They met Elvis Ann for the first time. Elvis Ann really took to Gary. He was a very good sport about it!
On Wednesday, we ventured out into town on the Go-Line, the free bus system around Vero Beach. Having a ride anywhere on land has become very special to us. The #1 bus stops at the marina and cruisers pile on board. Cruisers can be spotted all over town by their t-shirts, hats, sandals, and backpacks. Like Marines, we just start recognizing each other. Our bus stopped in the middle of West Marine, Publix, the Book Center, Panera Bread, and Carvel (for ice cream) – heaven on earth! Knowing my awesome culinary skills and liking my fellow cruisers, we decided to buy cranberry sauce at Publix to share at the Thanksgiving potluck. Provisions in John’s backpack, tummies full of turkey sandwiches and ice cream, and a $3.87 lightbulb later we were back on the Go-Line headed for the marina.
Back at the marina, we had received our first mail. What fun we had sorting through five weeks of mail, minus the junk mail which we pre-sorted over the telephone with John’s dad. We had all of our mail forwarded to him. He and Dorie have been patiently waiting for us to give them the first address where we can receive mail. Vero Beach is the first place we knew for sure we would stop and stay for a few days. Back on the boat, John devoured his Cruising World and Practical Sailor magazines. And, we paid a few ubiquitous bills.
On Thanksgiving Day, temperatures were a balmy 69 degrees, the sun shined brightly, and the sky was clear blue. At 1PM, about 100 cruisers met on the south side of the marina for a potluck of turkey and all the trimmings. Food was plentiful enough for seconds. Our friends had all elected to move on during the great Thanksgiving weather, so we made new friends. We enjoy hearing stories and getting tips from experienced cruisers. At 3PM, with our bellies full, we rolled back into the RIB (rigid inflatable boat), which is our car equivalent, and headed back to the boat.
This morning was thrilling! Three manatees swam for about 30 minutes just off of the back and side of our boat. John and I took a manatee tour years ago and saw one. Today, minding our own business enjoying the beautiful day we were treated to seeing three. They are adorable creatures in their massiveness.
Already we have learned why people call this “Velcro Beach”. The beach is beautiful and the city has everything a person needs. We planned to participate in the cruisers Thanksgiving potluck, and then leave this morning (Friday). After seeing the weather forecast for the next several days, we decided to stay here and wait for the front to move through. So did the other people on our mooring. Now we are waiting for a new “yellow box” for our windlass, which we expect to arrive on Wednesday. The “yellow box” is a switching unit that will alleviate John acting as the human windlass the next time we decide to anchor. We think this would be a good place from which to send our Christmas greetings, too. Our destination is still Marathon – really!
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
From NASCAR to NASA
From Palm Coast we made the short trip to Daytona Beach. The winds continued to blow so flags looked like they were starched, and the temperature still felt like we were north of the Mason-Dixon line. We stayed one night at Caribbean Jack’s, a restaurant and marina. The highlight of our stay in Daytona was cheeseburgers at Caribbean Jack’s.
Each evening we look at several weather websites for their forecasts. The consensus for our next travel day was 13 mph winds from the north. Our travels would take us through the Mosquito Lagoon. John looked forward to transiting the area again. While bringing our boat home from Miami two years ago, he raved about the clear waters with large fish, turtles, dolphins and manatees.
We pulled away from the dock in Daytona Beach on Friday morning at 0900. Winds blew 12 knots, as expected. As the day progressed, the winds grew. By the time we reached Mosquito Lagoon the winds had strengthened to 28 knots. The waters were quite choppy. While the views were still beautiful, we saw no fish. Turning into the Haulover Canal and passing under the bridge were real sport in all the wind and current. John handled the boat like it was no big deal. I’m glad I did not have to be at the helm!
We arrived in Titusville at 1500. Winds were still 28-30 knots from the north. We had heard several people on the radio who were docking at the Titusville Municipal Marina. Listening to their challenges helped us decide to throw out our anchor instead. Anchoring was uneventful and soon we were settled in place. The Titusville anchorage is just outside the marina with a lovely view of the space shuttle assembly building in the distance. The only unfortunate part was that the anchorage is not protected in any direction, especially not from north or east winds. Consequently, the boat surfed in two to three foot waves. Typically, we let out seven feet of anchor rode (chain) for every foot of water depth. We were in seven feet of water. Under normal circumstances we would let out about 50 feet of rode. That day we let out 100 feet, because the winds and waves were so strong. We wanted to give the anchor every chance to hold and not drag along the bottom.
With the anchor in place, I reclined in the cockpit like Cleopatra on her royal barge and enjoyed a glass of pinot noir while watching the sunset. Pink, orange, and red filled the clouds. With dishes washed and put away after a delicious dinner of a steak and vegetable stir-fry, we settled in to read. Suddenly, we heard a TTHHHWUMMPP at the bow. We rushed up the companion way to see what hit us, thinking another boat came too close. It turned out to be a manatee – perhaps a manatee with a headache. My thoughts went to the mangled front end of our corvette years ago after we hit a deer. I checked the bilge to ensure we were not taking on water. Island Packet (our boat brand) makes a very strong hull. The boat seemed fine.
That night, I slept like a baby – a hungry, colicky baby. John got up about every two hours to make sure the anchor was holding. It held like it was welded to the bottom.
The next morning, the winds still howled at over 20 knots. We decided to swing on the anchor that day and depart for Melbourne on Sunday. We scoured the inside of the boat and caught up on communications with family members.
On Sunday morning, we started the engine at 0800. I took the helm and John went forward to wash the anchor and rode as it emerged from the water. I was concerned that the anchor would be dug in so strongly that we would have trouble extricating it. My job is to move the boat while pressing a button in the cockpit that causes the windlass to bring up the anchor. John tells me which direction to move the bow so the anchor comes straight up. And, he uses the hose on the bow to wash the mud off the chain as it leaves the water. Well, that’s what normally happens. On that day, the windlass went on strike. Thank goodness we have redundant systems. John Rahm, human windlass was on the job. As he pulled up the first twenty feet of heavy chain, I could hear him muttering about 50 feet being enough and what made him think we needed 100 feet out. It wasn’t long before I heard him say, “Okay, the anchor is free, drive on” and the 60-pound CQR anchor became visible over the water. Frankly, I thought the whole process went much
Each evening we look at several weather websites for their forecasts. The consensus for our next travel day was 13 mph winds from the north. Our travels would take us through the Mosquito Lagoon. John looked forward to transiting the area again. While bringing our boat home from Miami two years ago, he raved about the clear waters with large fish, turtles, dolphins and manatees.
We pulled away from the dock in Daytona Beach on Friday morning at 0900. Winds blew 12 knots, as expected. As the day progressed, the winds grew. By the time we reached Mosquito Lagoon the winds had strengthened to 28 knots. The waters were quite choppy. While the views were still beautiful, we saw no fish. Turning into the Haulover Canal and passing under the bridge were real sport in all the wind and current. John handled the boat like it was no big deal. I’m glad I did not have to be at the helm!
We arrived in Titusville at 1500. Winds were still 28-30 knots from the north. We had heard several people on the radio who were docking at the Titusville Municipal Marina. Listening to their challenges helped us decide to throw out our anchor instead. Anchoring was uneventful and soon we were settled in place. The Titusville anchorage is just outside the marina with a lovely view of the space shuttle assembly building in the distance. The only unfortunate part was that the anchorage is not protected in any direction, especially not from north or east winds. Consequently, the boat surfed in two to three foot waves. Typically, we let out seven feet of anchor rode (chain) for every foot of water depth. We were in seven feet of water. Under normal circumstances we would let out about 50 feet of rode. That day we let out 100 feet, because the winds and waves were so strong. We wanted to give the anchor every chance to hold and not drag along the bottom.
With the anchor in place, I reclined in the cockpit like Cleopatra on her royal barge and enjoyed a glass of pinot noir while watching the sunset. Pink, orange, and red filled the clouds. With dishes washed and put away after a delicious dinner of a steak and vegetable stir-fry, we settled in to read. Suddenly, we heard a TTHHHWUMMPP at the bow. We rushed up the companion way to see what hit us, thinking another boat came too close. It turned out to be a manatee – perhaps a manatee with a headache. My thoughts went to the mangled front end of our corvette years ago after we hit a deer. I checked the bilge to ensure we were not taking on water. Island Packet (our boat brand) makes a very strong hull. The boat seemed fine.
That night, I slept like a baby – a hungry, colicky baby. John got up about every two hours to make sure the anchor was holding. It held like it was welded to the bottom.
The next morning, the winds still howled at over 20 knots. We decided to swing on the anchor that day and depart for Melbourne on Sunday. We scoured the inside of the boat and caught up on communications with family members.
On Sunday morning, we started the engine at 0800. I took the helm and John went forward to wash the anchor and rode as it emerged from the water. I was concerned that the anchor would be dug in so strongly that we would have trouble extricating it. My job is to move the boat while pressing a button in the cockpit that causes the windlass to bring up the anchor. John tells me which direction to move the bow so the anchor comes straight up. And, he uses the hose on the bow to wash the mud off the chain as it leaves the water. Well, that’s what normally happens. On that day, the windlass went on strike. Thank goodness we have redundant systems. John Rahm, human windlass was on the job. As he pulled up the first twenty feet of heavy chain, I could hear him muttering about 50 feet being enough and what made him think we needed 100 feet out. It wasn’t long before I heard him say, “Okay, the anchor is free, drive on” and the 60-pound CQR anchor became visible over the water. Frankly, I thought the whole process went much
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
It's Not What Happens to You, It's How You Handle It - Or, Sh_t Happens
For those of you who think cruising is full of idyllic romance, rainbows without rain, sunshine, and butterflies this blog entry is for you. The day had been perfect. We awakened at 0530, enjoyed coffee in bed and a leisurely start. We prepared the boat for departure from St Augustine in the usual way. We unplugged the shore power cord and set the lines so I could retrieve them from the boat as we pulled away. After completing the pre-castoff checklist, we departed on time at 0645. The boat practically sailed itself away from the dock and into the channel at Camachee Cove Marina. We arrived at the Bridge of Lions by 0717, in time to see a brilliant sunrise through the clouds, and motored through the bridge during the 0730 opening. We were on our way to Palm Coast. Along the way, the temperature was a balmy 40 degrees and the sun shined brightly. We saw a bald eagle couple perched together in a leafless tree along the AICW. Numerous dolphins swam up to greet us and escort us along the waterway.
We arrived at Palm Coast Marina about 4.5 hours later. Winds were 15 knots from the north. John skillfully turned the boat around in a narrow canal and backed it down the canal 100 yards in front of a low bridge in order to dock for fuel and pumping out. John executed the maneuvers so well and landed so gently at the dock that the seasoned dockmaster gave him a “nicely done”. We added 23 gallons of diesel fuel to our tanks. Then it was time to pump out the holding tank.
The holding tank is a 60-gallon tank in the boat for holding what gets flushed down the heads. Marinas have pumps and hoses that suck the waste out of the boat. Today, our holding tank was 55-gallons full. I did not read the cruising guide closely enough and failed to notice that Old Faithful erupts at the marina pump out station on certain days at about noon. As John held the suction hose over the pump out fitting things were going smoothly. Suddenly, the pump seemed to stop. The dockmaster suggested that John break the seal and reseat the suction fitting. When John broke the seal, the Old Faithful geyser of holding tank contents erupted from the pump out fitting catching John in the chest, with collateral damage around his face, legs, hat, and shoes, in addition to splattering the side of the boat. It was one of the nastier things I’ve seen in my adult life. I am pleased with myself, because I did not laugh, nor did I say “sh_t happens”. The contents of our holding tank were two weeks old. You can imagine the stench. John showed considerable restraint. I did hear a few very technical pump-out words. All in all he showed great strength of character.
Despite the events at the pump out station, we still needed to move the boat into our slip at the marina. Winds were howling. Currents were swift. I worked hard moving around the boat to stay upwind of John. In our next skillful maneuver, John backed us into our slip. My job was to catch the first piling in the slip and walk the line up to the bow. I caught the piling, and as I gently pulled the line taught it slipped right off of the top. It reminded me of the scene in the movie Tin Cup when Kevin Costner hits the golf ball over 200 yards over a lake and onto the green, only to have the ball roll off of the green and into the lake. So, we ended up a little bit too far over onto the other side of the slip. That’s why they call those things “rub rails”, right?
We finished securing the lines and fenders. Then, John peeled off his clothes and jumped into the shower. I bagged his clothes, hat, and shoes, along with the Cheer, Clorox, Spray and Wash, and a roll of quarters, and headed to the laundry room. Two hot washings later, his clothes, hat, and shoes were like new.
If I were coaching clients who had this kind of day, I would ask them what the gift was in this event that they perceived as bad. I'm thinking of something like the gift of perserverance that develops our maturity and humility. For me, the gift is that I used to think John’s boat shoes were smelly. Now I hardly notice them.
We arrived at Palm Coast Marina about 4.5 hours later. Winds were 15 knots from the north. John skillfully turned the boat around in a narrow canal and backed it down the canal 100 yards in front of a low bridge in order to dock for fuel and pumping out. John executed the maneuvers so well and landed so gently at the dock that the seasoned dockmaster gave him a “nicely done”. We added 23 gallons of diesel fuel to our tanks. Then it was time to pump out the holding tank.
The holding tank is a 60-gallon tank in the boat for holding what gets flushed down the heads. Marinas have pumps and hoses that suck the waste out of the boat. Today, our holding tank was 55-gallons full. I did not read the cruising guide closely enough and failed to notice that Old Faithful erupts at the marina pump out station on certain days at about noon. As John held the suction hose over the pump out fitting things were going smoothly. Suddenly, the pump seemed to stop. The dockmaster suggested that John break the seal and reseat the suction fitting. When John broke the seal, the Old Faithful geyser of holding tank contents erupted from the pump out fitting catching John in the chest, with collateral damage around his face, legs, hat, and shoes, in addition to splattering the side of the boat. It was one of the nastier things I’ve seen in my adult life. I am pleased with myself, because I did not laugh, nor did I say “sh_t happens”. The contents of our holding tank were two weeks old. You can imagine the stench. John showed considerable restraint. I did hear a few very technical pump-out words. All in all he showed great strength of character.
Despite the events at the pump out station, we still needed to move the boat into our slip at the marina. Winds were howling. Currents were swift. I worked hard moving around the boat to stay upwind of John. In our next skillful maneuver, John backed us into our slip. My job was to catch the first piling in the slip and walk the line up to the bow. I caught the piling, and as I gently pulled the line taught it slipped right off of the top. It reminded me of the scene in the movie Tin Cup when Kevin Costner hits the golf ball over 200 yards over a lake and onto the green, only to have the ball roll off of the green and into the lake. So, we ended up a little bit too far over onto the other side of the slip. That’s why they call those things “rub rails”, right?
We finished securing the lines and fenders. Then, John peeled off his clothes and jumped into the shower. I bagged his clothes, hat, and shoes, along with the Cheer, Clorox, Spray and Wash, and a roll of quarters, and headed to the laundry room. Two hot washings later, his clothes, hat, and shoes were like new.
If I were coaching clients who had this kind of day, I would ask them what the gift was in this event that they perceived as bad. I'm thinking of something like the gift of perserverance that develops our maturity and humility. For me, the gift is that I used to think John’s boat shoes were smelly. Now I hardly notice them.
Jacksonville Beach and St Augustine
We left Fernandina Beach early on Saturday morning, excited about getting to St Augustine. The trip would be about 55 miles. Our daily trip planning involves not only weather and winds, but also bridges and tides. On Saturday, fixed bridges were all along our route, which made it impossible to arrive at every bridge during low or mid-tides. Tides in South Carolina, Georgia, and Northern Florida change by about six feet. Our boat is challenging to move along the AICW, because it has the maximum draft and the maximum height the AICW will accommodate. Our draft is 5.5 feet under the boat and our mast is 63.5 feet high. Fixed bridges along the AICW usually provide 65 feet of vertical clearance. At high tide, often the clearance drops to 63 feet. In Georgia, we planned to move during high tide, because of the many shallow portions of the AICW there. Florida keeps their portion of the AICW dredged. However, many bridges cross the waterway.
We passed under two bridges right away. At about 1020, we arrived at the Wonderwood Bridge just across the St John’s River. We knew the tides would be high and hoped the bridge would still have at least 64 feet of vertical clearance. Thank goodness for vertical clearance markers under the bridges. The marker read 63 feet. Consequently, we turned around and went back out to the St Johns River. For two hours we toured the river and explored the St Johns Inlet to the Atlantic Ocean. If the weather had been better we would have traveled on the outside. At about noon we floated uneventfully under the Wonderwood Bridge. Now we would be arriving in St Augustine in the dark. As we continued down the waterway, thunderstorms were building around us. We were about halfway to our destination, when the sky opened up and the winds gusted to 30 knots. We pressed on for about five more minutes until we reached the Jacksonville-McCormick Fixed Bridge. Once again, the tides were too high for us to move through. We stopped the boat and decided to wait out the storm which was becoming worse. Seeing the very dark sky ahead and knowing we would be delayed waiting for lower tides, we stopped for the night at the Jacksonville Beach Marina, just north of the bridge.
The next morning we departed early during low tide, and traveled uneventfully to Camachee Cove Marina in St Augustine. We stayed for three nights. On the first night we dined with our new friends, Bob and Christie, who were down from Jacksonville. Making new friends is still my favorite part of cruising. They introduced me to a fish called cobia. The Kingfish Grill had coconut encrusted cobia on special. What a light, white fish – so tender and flaky!
Monday was a very special day. We rented a car and drove to Gainesville to visit my aunt, uncle and grandma. Grandma is 95 years young and recently moved into an assisted living facility. I enjoyed seeing her so happy in her new home and with her new friends. John met her for the first time. He also met my uncle, Levi, for the first time. Aunt Joni, John, and I talked for hours until it was time to return to the boat. I am so thankful we had this time together and that John became acquainted with more of my mom’s side of the family.
Tuesdays are the days I work so we plan to be in marinas. I coach in the morning and evening and love it! Mid-day, we borrowed the marina courtesy car and drove into historic downtown St Augustine. We toured the old fort – Castillo de San Marco, then walked to the oldest schoolhouse in the United States, stopping for ice cream along the way. The temperature was about 50 degrees. It is never too cold for homemade cow tracks or strawberry ice cream! We finished preparing for our trip to Palm Coast after dinner and went to bed early.
We passed under two bridges right away. At about 1020, we arrived at the Wonderwood Bridge just across the St John’s River. We knew the tides would be high and hoped the bridge would still have at least 64 feet of vertical clearance. Thank goodness for vertical clearance markers under the bridges. The marker read 63 feet. Consequently, we turned around and went back out to the St Johns River. For two hours we toured the river and explored the St Johns Inlet to the Atlantic Ocean. If the weather had been better we would have traveled on the outside. At about noon we floated uneventfully under the Wonderwood Bridge. Now we would be arriving in St Augustine in the dark. As we continued down the waterway, thunderstorms were building around us. We were about halfway to our destination, when the sky opened up and the winds gusted to 30 knots. We pressed on for about five more minutes until we reached the Jacksonville-McCormick Fixed Bridge. Once again, the tides were too high for us to move through. We stopped the boat and decided to wait out the storm which was becoming worse. Seeing the very dark sky ahead and knowing we would be delayed waiting for lower tides, we stopped for the night at the Jacksonville Beach Marina, just north of the bridge.
The next morning we departed early during low tide, and traveled uneventfully to Camachee Cove Marina in St Augustine. We stayed for three nights. On the first night we dined with our new friends, Bob and Christie, who were down from Jacksonville. Making new friends is still my favorite part of cruising. They introduced me to a fish called cobia. The Kingfish Grill had coconut encrusted cobia on special. What a light, white fish – so tender and flaky!
Monday was a very special day. We rented a car and drove to Gainesville to visit my aunt, uncle and grandma. Grandma is 95 years young and recently moved into an assisted living facility. I enjoyed seeing her so happy in her new home and with her new friends. John met her for the first time. He also met my uncle, Levi, for the first time. Aunt Joni, John, and I talked for hours until it was time to return to the boat. I am so thankful we had this time together and that John became acquainted with more of my mom’s side of the family.
Tuesdays are the days I work so we plan to be in marinas. I coach in the morning and evening and love it! Mid-day, we borrowed the marina courtesy car and drove into historic downtown St Augustine. We toured the old fort – Castillo de San Marco, then walked to the oldest schoolhouse in the United States, stopping for ice cream along the way. The temperature was about 50 degrees. It is never too cold for homemade cow tracks or strawberry ice cream! We finished preparing for our trip to Palm Coast after dinner and went to bed early.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
Jekyll Island, GA to Fernandina Beach, FL
On November 13th, we delayed our departure from Jekyll Island until 9AM when the temperature was three degrees higher than the dew point, thinking that would mean the fog had lifted along our route as it had at our dock. The AICW route through St Andrews Sound took us almost out to sea. Visibility was about 0.5 mile. Apparently, the dew point and temperature in the ocean were still within three degrees. John and I both heard an unusual noise ahead and looked at each other wondering what it was. About five minutes later we heard a blaring HAAAAAUUUUOOONNNNNNK! and found ourselves heading for a large barge whose captain was not deviating from his course to avoid us – as if he could! John remained calm and steered us to safety. Then, he peeled me off of the bimini. Once my heart rate got below 200 bpm I got back to spotting channel markers.
Soon, the fog lifted and we relished the beauty of Cumberland Island. Dolphin swam alongs our port side, leaping in the waves. As we approached Kings Bay, GA where the U.S. Navy has a submarine base, we decided to bypass St Marys, GA and go straight to Fernandina Beach, FL. Fernandina Beach is not far from St Marys and is just across the Florida border. Psychologically, that day we felt the need to say we were finally in Florida! We have heard wonderful things about St Marys and how friendly the people there are to cruisers. Perhaps we will stop there on our way home.
Our fellow cruisers had told us what a lovely city Fernandina Beach is, so my hopes and expectations were high. As we crossed Cumberland Sound and the Florida state line we could feel our excitement building. We turned into the Amelia River with visions of more quaint shops and fabulous restaurants. What we saw was industrial sites and more paper mills, not what I would call breathtaking scenery. Surely we were in the wrong place. And then we reached the Fernandina Beach Marina and found the wonderful city we expected.
We enjoyed Thursday and Friday (13-14 November) in Fernandina Beach. The theme of our stay was outer space. On the first evening, the moon was full. We stopped at an Irish Pub for early sustenance. At 5PM we took a taxi across Amelia Island to the beach to watch the moon rise over the ocean at 5:40PM. As we walked along the beach watching the moon emerge from the vast ocean, we felt like we were totally removed from civilization. Hearing the waves crash on the beach, feeling the breeze off the ocean on our faces, seeing the giant glow of the moon rising up out of the water awakened our spirits and made us feel connected to the universe and at peace. After about an hour, we decided it was time to rejoin civilization and took a taxi to the Crab Shack for a round of gator tails. I thought they tasted like chicken.
On Friday evening, we dined at Espana (on Fourth Street), a Portuguese and Spanish- style tapas restaurant. My vocabulary is failing me for the words to accurately describe how incredibly delicious the food was. We finished the meal by sharing a serving of Tiramisu – ecstasy in a glass! I’m still thinking about it. And, when I say “sharing”, I use the term loosely. That was our original intent. It is possible that I had more than my share.
We walked back to the boat by 7:15PM and tuned our laptop into the NASA channel to watch the Space Shuttle launch countdown coverage. We set up the laptop in the cockpit so we could see the shuttle lift off, and then look into the night sky to watch it soar by. John spotted the glow in the clouds first. The clouds parted and the Space Shuttle raced like a giant roman candle across the horizon. Spectacular! It was the first time I had seen the shuttle take off. What a thrill!
We relived the moment with others on the dock for a few minutes, and then went below to prepare for moving on toward St Augustine on Saturday.
Soon, the fog lifted and we relished the beauty of Cumberland Island. Dolphin swam alongs our port side, leaping in the waves. As we approached Kings Bay, GA where the U.S. Navy has a submarine base, we decided to bypass St Marys, GA and go straight to Fernandina Beach, FL. Fernandina Beach is not far from St Marys and is just across the Florida border. Psychologically, that day we felt the need to say we were finally in Florida! We have heard wonderful things about St Marys and how friendly the people there are to cruisers. Perhaps we will stop there on our way home.
Our fellow cruisers had told us what a lovely city Fernandina Beach is, so my hopes and expectations were high. As we crossed Cumberland Sound and the Florida state line we could feel our excitement building. We turned into the Amelia River with visions of more quaint shops and fabulous restaurants. What we saw was industrial sites and more paper mills, not what I would call breathtaking scenery. Surely we were in the wrong place. And then we reached the Fernandina Beach Marina and found the wonderful city we expected.
We enjoyed Thursday and Friday (13-14 November) in Fernandina Beach. The theme of our stay was outer space. On the first evening, the moon was full. We stopped at an Irish Pub for early sustenance. At 5PM we took a taxi across Amelia Island to the beach to watch the moon rise over the ocean at 5:40PM. As we walked along the beach watching the moon emerge from the vast ocean, we felt like we were totally removed from civilization. Hearing the waves crash on the beach, feeling the breeze off the ocean on our faces, seeing the giant glow of the moon rising up out of the water awakened our spirits and made us feel connected to the universe and at peace. After about an hour, we decided it was time to rejoin civilization and took a taxi to the Crab Shack for a round of gator tails. I thought they tasted like chicken.
On Friday evening, we dined at Espana (on Fourth Street), a Portuguese and Spanish- style tapas restaurant. My vocabulary is failing me for the words to accurately describe how incredibly delicious the food was. We finished the meal by sharing a serving of Tiramisu – ecstasy in a glass! I’m still thinking about it. And, when I say “sharing”, I use the term loosely. That was our original intent. It is possible that I had more than my share.
We walked back to the boat by 7:15PM and tuned our laptop into the NASA channel to watch the Space Shuttle launch countdown coverage. We set up the laptop in the cockpit so we could see the shuttle lift off, and then look into the night sky to watch it soar by. John spotted the glow in the clouds first. The clouds parted and the Space Shuttle raced like a giant roman candle across the horizon. Spectacular! It was the first time I had seen the shuttle take off. What a thrill!
We relived the moment with others on the dock for a few minutes, and then went below to prepare for moving on toward St Augustine on Saturday.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Brunswick and Jekyll Island
On November 10 we moved the boat about eight miles from the Golden Isles Marina to the Brunswick Landing Marina. We wanted to celebrate the 233rd Marine Corps birthday by dining at the Cargo Portside Grill, the #8 restaurant in Georgia. It was a fine idea, except that the restaurant is closed on Mondays. Consequently, we celebrated at Fox Pizza. Our server, Lynda, has a son-in-law in the Marine Corps. She showed us pictures and bought us a round of Blue Moons with orange slices. While it was not the evening we planned, it may have been even better.
We rode our bikes around Brunswick. Like New Bern, NC and Georgetown, SC, Brunswick has a paper/pulp mill. Again, the wind was blowing just right so we could not forget the mill. The locals say it smells like money. Money would not be the word I would choose. We rode through the historic downtown and enjoyed the quaint shops and old buildings. Later we rode a few miles outside of downtown to the West Marine store. When we found the West Marine, we could see the Golden Isles Marina. We realized we could have ridden our bikes into Brunswick easily instead of moving the boat. The Brunswick Landing Marina was worth the visit, though. They had lovely laundry facilities and offered them free of charge. Amazing!
On Veterans’ Day we moved the boat another short distance to the Jekyll Island Marina. We arrived by 9:00AM and had the rest of the day to see the island. We found our friends on Toucan and Solveig II already here. We docked beside Carol and her husband on Traumeri who are from Fairfield Harbor in New Bern, NC. Wayne and Lindell on Solveig II gave us several pictures they had taken of us underway and when they were aboard with us in Bucksport. How thoughtful! Gary and Lillian on Toucan invited us to join them and their friends from Rock Hall, MD for dinner at Latitude 31. What a treat! Cruisers rock.
Jekyll Island used to be privately owned by families like the Rockefellers and Vanderbilts. We rode our bikes all over the island, about 20 miles. The winds made riding a real workout. We rode out on the beach at St Andrews Sound at low tide. As we rounded the corner on the Atlantic Ocean side, the winds blew so forcefully in our faces that I felt like we were on stationary bikes! From the beach we took the bike trail to historic downtown to see the Jekyll Island Club Hotel. The Hotel reminds me of the Hotel del Coronado. The hotels have the same feel about them. From the hotel, we rode to the Sea Turtle Rehabilitation Center where we enjoyed learning about sea turtles. We stayed at the Center to watch the doctors make their rounds and talk about the condition and status of the sea turtle residents. Quaint shops and historic mansions, along with beautiful beaches stretching for miles make Jekyll Island resort a lovely vacation spot.
Today we are kicking back in Jekyll Island. In another hour it will be a reasonable time to call my brother, Theo (aka Mike) in San Francisco and wish him a happy 40th birthday. Later I will scour the boat so everything is spic and span.
We rode our bikes around Brunswick. Like New Bern, NC and Georgetown, SC, Brunswick has a paper/pulp mill. Again, the wind was blowing just right so we could not forget the mill. The locals say it smells like money. Money would not be the word I would choose. We rode through the historic downtown and enjoyed the quaint shops and old buildings. Later we rode a few miles outside of downtown to the West Marine store. When we found the West Marine, we could see the Golden Isles Marina. We realized we could have ridden our bikes into Brunswick easily instead of moving the boat. The Brunswick Landing Marina was worth the visit, though. They had lovely laundry facilities and offered them free of charge. Amazing!
On Veterans’ Day we moved the boat another short distance to the Jekyll Island Marina. We arrived by 9:00AM and had the rest of the day to see the island. We found our friends on Toucan and Solveig II already here. We docked beside Carol and her husband on Traumeri who are from Fairfield Harbor in New Bern, NC. Wayne and Lindell on Solveig II gave us several pictures they had taken of us underway and when they were aboard with us in Bucksport. How thoughtful! Gary and Lillian on Toucan invited us to join them and their friends from Rock Hall, MD for dinner at Latitude 31. What a treat! Cruisers rock.
Jekyll Island used to be privately owned by families like the Rockefellers and Vanderbilts. We rode our bikes all over the island, about 20 miles. The winds made riding a real workout. We rode out on the beach at St Andrews Sound at low tide. As we rounded the corner on the Atlantic Ocean side, the winds blew so forcefully in our faces that I felt like we were on stationary bikes! From the beach we took the bike trail to historic downtown to see the Jekyll Island Club Hotel. The Hotel reminds me of the Hotel del Coronado. The hotels have the same feel about them. From the hotel, we rode to the Sea Turtle Rehabilitation Center where we enjoyed learning about sea turtles. We stayed at the Center to watch the doctors make their rounds and talk about the condition and status of the sea turtle residents. Quaint shops and historic mansions, along with beautiful beaches stretching for miles make Jekyll Island resort a lovely vacation spot.
Today we are kicking back in Jekyll Island. In another hour it will be a reasonable time to call my brother, Theo (aka Mike) in San Francisco and wish him a happy 40th birthday. Later I will scour the boat so everything is spic and span.
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Isle of Hope to St Simons Island
The Georgia portion of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (AICW) winds down the coast like a maze of rivers and grasses. It looks funny to see sailboat masts moving in the grasses – winding two or three miles to make one mile of headway. Here, the AICW has many shallow spots that require complete attention and precision while navigating, and prior planning to ensure traversing them at mid-rising to high tide. Armed with cruising guides by both Dozier and Young, the latest paper charts, our sporadically functioning GPS/chart plotter, the latest scoop from “Skipper Bob”, and our plans A and B, we departed Isle of Hope Marina for one of the many anchorages along the way.
The first challenging section of the AICW was called Hell Gate. We arrived at mid-rising tide. Fellow cruisers aboard the sailing vessel “Silver” had passed through ahead of us and radioed back that they never saw depths less than eight feet. We need at least five-and-a-half feet to avoid a close encounter of the grounding kind. Delighted to have this valuable information, we relaxed and made sure we stayed in the right part of the channel.
The day was as beautiful as I had ever seen. The only time I remember a sky so clear and blue was hiking around the lakes high in the Southern Sierras. Dolphins swam beside our bow as we traversed St Catherine Sound. John could have looked over the side into the water to shave his face. Yes, the Sound really was that calm!
We radioed Dan and Kathy on Sea Star, an Island Packet 440, to ask them where they planned to stop for the night. They were just ahead of us and were heading for Walburg Creek, just across St Catherine Sound. We decided to join them. Breathtaking, picturesque, serene, heavenly – the pictures on our website hardly capture the beauty of Walburg Creek. We anchored beside Sea Star. Dan and Kathy drove their dinghy to our boat for cold beverages and dinner. They have been cruising since July, first up to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, and now south to the Caribbean. They went “all in” and sold their home to live aboard. We enjoyed their stories and tips!
The next day we wound our way about 56.7 miles (but who’s counting?) through more challenging spots in the AICW where shoaling has occurred. We were white-knuckled through Little Mud Creek, because favorable currents caused us to arrive at the mouth of the creek an hour earlier than we had planned. Tides change by about six feet during each cycle. We were only two hours beyond low tide. The Cruisers’ Net website advised to only pass through at high tide, with added emphasis in all caps “NO FOOLING!”. Perhaps that cruiser exaggerated, or maybe he was in a different part of the channel. The lowest depths we saw were eight feet.
The final white-knuckle moment of the day was passing under the 65-foot vertical clearance fixed bridge between Brunswick and Lanier Island, just before the Golden Isle Marina. We arrived at the bridge only 45 minutes prior to high tide. The vertical clearance marker on the bridge said “64” feet. That is the absolute minimum clearance we need for our 63.5-foot mast. For those of you familiar with the DISC assessment, I was praying that the person who installed that clearance marker was a “high C”(perfectionist, attention to detail)! I stood on the bow as we waited for power boats to pass under the bridge and for their wakes to subside. Finally, ten minutes closer to high tide, it was our turn. I held my breath as the mast cleared the bridge with inches to spare. The VHF antenna twanged as it brushed the first spar, second spar, third spar, …I think I counted eight spars. Fortunately, the antenna is hearty and it still rides atop the mast and functions as advertised.
We docked uneventfully at the Golden Isle Marina at 4PM, a lovely end to a demanding day. Our friend, Richard, had already arrived at the marina. He is a fellow Georgia Tech graduate who built his own powerboat – a hybrid with both a gas and electric motors. Solar panels keep his house batteries charged. He is single-handing his boat to Ft Lauderdale. We enjoyed deep and philosophical conversation with him!
This morning we awoke to find freshly baked blueberry and chocolate chip muffins outside of our companion way. We thought Carl was kidding when he greeted us at the dock and said the staff would deliver muffins to us in the morning! What a treat! After a slow start to the morning, including this week’s Turning Point podcast, we borrowed the courtesy car and toured St Simons Island. The island is a seaside resort with a fascinating history and old southern money roots.
Tomorrow we will move a short distance to Brunswick. We want to see the city before moving on to St Marys, GA.
The first challenging section of the AICW was called Hell Gate. We arrived at mid-rising tide. Fellow cruisers aboard the sailing vessel “Silver” had passed through ahead of us and radioed back that they never saw depths less than eight feet. We need at least five-and-a-half feet to avoid a close encounter of the grounding kind. Delighted to have this valuable information, we relaxed and made sure we stayed in the right part of the channel.
The day was as beautiful as I had ever seen. The only time I remember a sky so clear and blue was hiking around the lakes high in the Southern Sierras. Dolphins swam beside our bow as we traversed St Catherine Sound. John could have looked over the side into the water to shave his face. Yes, the Sound really was that calm!
We radioed Dan and Kathy on Sea Star, an Island Packet 440, to ask them where they planned to stop for the night. They were just ahead of us and were heading for Walburg Creek, just across St Catherine Sound. We decided to join them. Breathtaking, picturesque, serene, heavenly – the pictures on our website hardly capture the beauty of Walburg Creek. We anchored beside Sea Star. Dan and Kathy drove their dinghy to our boat for cold beverages and dinner. They have been cruising since July, first up to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, and now south to the Caribbean. They went “all in” and sold their home to live aboard. We enjoyed their stories and tips!
The next day we wound our way about 56.7 miles (but who’s counting?) through more challenging spots in the AICW where shoaling has occurred. We were white-knuckled through Little Mud Creek, because favorable currents caused us to arrive at the mouth of the creek an hour earlier than we had planned. Tides change by about six feet during each cycle. We were only two hours beyond low tide. The Cruisers’ Net website advised to only pass through at high tide, with added emphasis in all caps “NO FOOLING!”. Perhaps that cruiser exaggerated, or maybe he was in a different part of the channel. The lowest depths we saw were eight feet.
The final white-knuckle moment of the day was passing under the 65-foot vertical clearance fixed bridge between Brunswick and Lanier Island, just before the Golden Isle Marina. We arrived at the bridge only 45 minutes prior to high tide. The vertical clearance marker on the bridge said “64” feet. That is the absolute minimum clearance we need for our 63.5-foot mast. For those of you familiar with the DISC assessment, I was praying that the person who installed that clearance marker was a “high C”(perfectionist, attention to detail)! I stood on the bow as we waited for power boats to pass under the bridge and for their wakes to subside. Finally, ten minutes closer to high tide, it was our turn. I held my breath as the mast cleared the bridge with inches to spare. The VHF antenna twanged as it brushed the first spar, second spar, third spar, …I think I counted eight spars. Fortunately, the antenna is hearty and it still rides atop the mast and functions as advertised.
We docked uneventfully at the Golden Isle Marina at 4PM, a lovely end to a demanding day. Our friend, Richard, had already arrived at the marina. He is a fellow Georgia Tech graduate who built his own powerboat – a hybrid with both a gas and electric motors. Solar panels keep his house batteries charged. He is single-handing his boat to Ft Lauderdale. We enjoyed deep and philosophical conversation with him!
This morning we awoke to find freshly baked blueberry and chocolate chip muffins outside of our companion way. We thought Carl was kidding when he greeted us at the dock and said the staff would deliver muffins to us in the morning! What a treat! After a slow start to the morning, including this week’s Turning Point podcast, we borrowed the courtesy car and toured St Simons Island. The island is a seaside resort with a fascinating history and old southern money roots.
Tomorrow we will move a short distance to Brunswick. We want to see the city before moving on to St Marys, GA.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Beaufort, SC and Isle of Hope, GA
Beaufort, SC is a lovely town, with an historic downtown area along the waterfront similar to Georgetown and Southport. We enjoyed three nights at the Beaufort Downtown Marina waiting for the rainy weather to clear. Breakfast at Blackstone's on two mornings is what we will remember most. (Blackstone's is a small cafe' specializing in shrimp and grits, and sporting lots of Marine Corps "stuff" on the walls.) That, and being with friends we have met along the way. We enjoyed getting to know Wayne and Lindell on Solveig II. Meeting new friends is still my favorite part of cruising.
We flew our 4' x 6' Marine Corps flag proudly in Beaufort, SC (home of MCAS Beaufort) and left it flying as we cruised past Parris Island on our way to Isle of Hope, GA. I continue to call it "Isle of Palms" accidentally, because palm trees abound here.
We left Beaufort, SC at the same time Ben and Judy Beatty were leaving on their sailboat, Sunpenny. They saw our flag flying and called us on the radio. Ben's Dad had been a Marine flying Corsairs in WWII. Now that's a manly job! Ben and Judy have been down the AICW many times, so they led the way and we traveled together to Isle of Hope, GA. We enjoyed spending a few hours with them that evening once we were settled. They shared their crusing stories and we learned tons about cruising through Florida.
Along the way we were thrilled to see another bald eagle. What majestic birds they are! I'm so glad that Ben Franklin did not get his way. The bald eagle is the perfect symbol of the U.S.A.
Isle of Hope is considered part of Savannah, GA. We did not make time to see downtown Savannah or Hilton Head this trip. Perhaps we will stop there on our way home. We enjoy the smaller villages along the waterway.
The Isle of Hope marina is a terrific stop for cruisers. The facilities are up-to-date and the staff is friendly and knowledgable. In addition to the typical marina services, they offer two courtesy cars, free wireless Internet service, outgoing mail service, notary services and faxing. This marina is at the top of our list so far. We drove a courtesy car to WalMart for a little provisioning and a new toy for Elvis Ann. :-) She's really adjusting well to the cruising life.
It is another beautiful sunny day today. I'm not actually sure what day it is. Now in the morning when we awaken, John turns to me and asks "What day is it?". I turn back to him and say "It's today!". To which he responds, "My favorite day!". I know, it's silly. Is that too much information?
In a few minutes we will depart for windy rivers in southern Georgia. I'm not sure if we will have cell phone or Internet access for a day or so. We are looking forward to the beautiful, yet remote scenery.
We flew our 4' x 6' Marine Corps flag proudly in Beaufort, SC (home of MCAS Beaufort) and left it flying as we cruised past Parris Island on our way to Isle of Hope, GA. I continue to call it "Isle of Palms" accidentally, because palm trees abound here.
We left Beaufort, SC at the same time Ben and Judy Beatty were leaving on their sailboat, Sunpenny. They saw our flag flying and called us on the radio. Ben's Dad had been a Marine flying Corsairs in WWII. Now that's a manly job! Ben and Judy have been down the AICW many times, so they led the way and we traveled together to Isle of Hope, GA. We enjoyed spending a few hours with them that evening once we were settled. They shared their crusing stories and we learned tons about cruising through Florida.
Along the way we were thrilled to see another bald eagle. What majestic birds they are! I'm so glad that Ben Franklin did not get his way. The bald eagle is the perfect symbol of the U.S.A.
Isle of Hope is considered part of Savannah, GA. We did not make time to see downtown Savannah or Hilton Head this trip. Perhaps we will stop there on our way home. We enjoy the smaller villages along the waterway.
The Isle of Hope marina is a terrific stop for cruisers. The facilities are up-to-date and the staff is friendly and knowledgable. In addition to the typical marina services, they offer two courtesy cars, free wireless Internet service, outgoing mail service, notary services and faxing. This marina is at the top of our list so far. We drove a courtesy car to WalMart for a little provisioning and a new toy for Elvis Ann. :-) She's really adjusting well to the cruising life.
It is another beautiful sunny day today. I'm not actually sure what day it is. Now in the morning when we awaken, John turns to me and asks "What day is it?". I turn back to him and say "It's today!". To which he responds, "My favorite day!". I know, it's silly. Is that too much information?
In a few minutes we will depart for windy rivers in southern Georgia. I'm not sure if we will have cell phone or Internet access for a day or so. We are looking forward to the beautiful, yet remote scenery.
Mercy and Grace in Charleston
The secret to navigating Charleston Harbor is timing your arrival during slack tides. We arrived as the tides were beginning to ebb. Our assigned slip was on the outside of the Charleston City Marina just beyond the marina entrance channel. We tried backing into the slip. The slip grew smaller and smaller as our boat grew bigger and bigger. The swift currents made backing in impossible. John made another pass and pulled in bow first. John and Randy, our next-slip neighbors, stepped off of their boat to assist us. I was grateful for their help, because the strong currents worked hard to push us into their boat. I suspect they noticed that, too. With the boat tied to the dock, we drug the 50-Amp power cord to the bow of the boat only to find that the cord was too short to reach the power pedestal on the dock. So, we asked the marina staff for a different slip. Our new slip was just inside the entrance channel along the megadock. By now about an hour had passed. Our neighbors helped us cast off just before sunset, and we pulled out for the short jaunt to our new slip. By now the ebbing currents were swift and the winds had picked up to 15 knots or so. Having a shoal-draft keel, we need water over the keel in order to steer the boat. Despite John’s excellent skills at the helm, he, our Yanmar 100-horsepower engine, and our bow-thruster were no match for the winds and current. The swift currents swept our stern onto a piling and the stern of a 115-foot aluminum-hull sailboat docked just inside the entrance channel. Unlike our slip, the stern of the other boat looked bigger and bigger as we quickly approached it until we were pinned. I dropped fenders in place just in time to avoid damage to either vessel. Other people at the marina came by to offer support. Many of them had experienced the same predicament. They convinced us that our only safe solution was to wait for slack tides and float off of the other boat. After nearly three hours, the tides slacked, we floated away and drove uneventfully into our slip.
I told you that story to tell you this. Our journey so far has been full of God’s mercy and grace. We received more than our share in Charleston.
God’s mercy: We were not moving any faster out of the slip.
God’s grace: Our fenders were tied in exactly the right place and I could throw them over the side just in time to avoid damage to our boat and the other boat.
God’s mercy: Ronny and Nicolette were on the other boat.
God’s grace: They remained calm, knew what to do, tied more fenders in place, and made sure we were okay.
God’s mercy: Several others docked at the marina saw what happened and stopped by to offer support.
God’s grace: Many of them had the same kind of experience in the past and shared with us the solution that worked best for them, keeping us from making their mistakes.
God’s mercy: Only one trawler tried to motor through the marina entrance channel while we were pinned.
God’s grace: We were able to hold the fenders and boat in place while we rode out the trawler’s wake so no damage was done to either boat.
Every day we count our blessings. Some days we have to use our fingers AND our toes. :-)
I told you that story to tell you this. Our journey so far has been full of God’s mercy and grace. We received more than our share in Charleston.
God’s mercy: We were not moving any faster out of the slip.
God’s grace: Our fenders were tied in exactly the right place and I could throw them over the side just in time to avoid damage to our boat and the other boat.
God’s mercy: Ronny and Nicolette were on the other boat.
God’s grace: They remained calm, knew what to do, tied more fenders in place, and made sure we were okay.
God’s mercy: Several others docked at the marina saw what happened and stopped by to offer support.
God’s grace: Many of them had the same kind of experience in the past and shared with us the solution that worked best for them, keeping us from making their mistakes.
God’s mercy: Only one trawler tried to motor through the marina entrance channel while we were pinned.
God’s grace: We were able to hold the fenders and boat in place while we rode out the trawler’s wake so no damage was done to either boat.
Every day we count our blessings. Some days we have to use our fingers AND our toes. :-)
Saturday, November 1, 2008
Georgetown to Charleston
Cruising the waterway between Georgetown and Charleston felt like stepping out of civilization into the wild. Just south of Georgetown, a pair of bald eagles graced us. One soared over us while the other perched nearby. A wild pig slept on the sandy shore. Great egrets and great blue herons fished in the shallows. Flat, grassy swamps stretched to the horizon. Turtles sunned together on large logs. Even navigating the shoals, we felt so peaceful.
In Charleston, we stayed for two nights at the Charleston City Marina. The marina was completely full. We docked on the inside of the marina on the megadock. We were surrounded by mega-yachts each over 100-feet long. Let's just say that there were far more motor yachts than sailboats at the marina. And, while the staff did what they could to provide the promised services, we were not their first priority.
We worked on the boat in the morning, washing and polishing it, changing the fuel filter, checking the oil. In the afternoon, we took the marina shuttle into historic downtown. The highlight of our day was a horse-drawn carriage tour from N. Market Street around the Battery area on the waterfront. We topped off the day with an old fashioned chocolate milkshake and a light dinner at Bubba Gump's.
This morning we waited for slack tide at 11am and departed the marina. We headed down the Wapoo Creek through Elliot's Cut, then turned into the Stono River. Yes, we may have gone all of three miles today. :-) Tomorrow we will make the long trek to Beaufort, SC. Today, we simply wanted to swing on our anchor and enjoy the view together. My vocabulary fails me when describing the sunset this evening. I'll post a picture, although I'm not sure it will capture the breathtaking 360-degree rays of the bright sunshine through the clouds. Another peaceful day after being in the city. I'm looking forward to the trip tomorrow through the lowlands and rivers of South Carolina.
In Charleston, we stayed for two nights at the Charleston City Marina. The marina was completely full. We docked on the inside of the marina on the megadock. We were surrounded by mega-yachts each over 100-feet long. Let's just say that there were far more motor yachts than sailboats at the marina. And, while the staff did what they could to provide the promised services, we were not their first priority.
We worked on the boat in the morning, washing and polishing it, changing the fuel filter, checking the oil. In the afternoon, we took the marina shuttle into historic downtown. The highlight of our day was a horse-drawn carriage tour from N. Market Street around the Battery area on the waterfront. We topped off the day with an old fashioned chocolate milkshake and a light dinner at Bubba Gump's.
This morning we waited for slack tide at 11am and departed the marina. We headed down the Wapoo Creek through Elliot's Cut, then turned into the Stono River. Yes, we may have gone all of three miles today. :-) Tomorrow we will make the long trek to Beaufort, SC. Today, we simply wanted to swing on our anchor and enjoy the view together. My vocabulary fails me when describing the sunset this evening. I'll post a picture, although I'm not sure it will capture the breathtaking 360-degree rays of the bright sunshine through the clouds. Another peaceful day after being in the city. I'm looking forward to the trip tomorrow through the lowlands and rivers of South Carolina.
Bucksport and Georgetown
In between Myrtle Beach and Georgetown, we stopped for a night at the Bucksport Marina. The marina staff in Myrtle Beach warned us that it was not a good stop. However, we found the staff and locals to be friendly, and the atmosphere rustic. I enjoyed the opportunity to do laundry without competition for the machines and with the laundry building in proximity to the boat. The atmosphere reminded me of something we could find in Pamlico County outside of Oriental. With the 50Amp cord plugged in at the dock, we turned on the heat and slept deeply through a 36-degree night.
We had been traveling parallel to another sailing vessel - Solveig II. We were in Myrtle Beach together and stopped at Bucksport together. Wayne and Lindell are the owners. They are from north of Toronto and are heading to the Bahamas, retracing their cruise of 20 years ago when their sons were with them. They left home in August. I was feeling grateful to live in Oriental, so much closer to the FL Keys. Meeting people is one of the most fun parts of cruising so far. We invited them to our boat for a glass of wine. Elvis Ann entertained them with her usual tricks. Being the center of attention makes her so happy. :-)
The next morning we headed for Georgetown, SC. We stayed two nights at a marina on the waterfront. Let's just say that the dockmaster will not be voted "Mr. Congeniality" any time soon. Despite the dockmaster's disposition, we found Georgetown to be delightful. The highlight of our visit was a trolley tour given by a long-time resident. My southern history was a bit lacking. I never realized the level of religious tolerance South Carolina had during the 1700s and 1800s. People who were persecuted elsewhere settled in Georgetown and around South Carolina. For instance, many Jewish people found a happy home in Georgetown. I enjoyed seeing the historic homes and the quaint historic downtown area. Tree-lined streets, a clock tower, and lots of flowers make Georgetown charming. I felt as if I'd stepped into a Jan Karon novel.
Did I mention Confederate Roses in my last blog entry? We are fortunate to be here while those bushes are blooming. The leaves are large and green, and large pink blossoms cover the bushes like a hydrangea bush in the NC summer. We saw many of these bushes in bloom in the ICW and in Georgetown.
From Georgetown we moved 67 miles to Charleston Harbor. We followed John and Honey in Hielan Lass. We had seen them on our way to Wrightsville Beach, and then we saw each other again at the same marina in Georgetown. They are from NJ and are also heading to Marathon, FL. John and I enjoyed traveling the waterway with them.
We had been traveling parallel to another sailing vessel - Solveig II. We were in Myrtle Beach together and stopped at Bucksport together. Wayne and Lindell are the owners. They are from north of Toronto and are heading to the Bahamas, retracing their cruise of 20 years ago when their sons were with them. They left home in August. I was feeling grateful to live in Oriental, so much closer to the FL Keys. Meeting people is one of the most fun parts of cruising so far. We invited them to our boat for a glass of wine. Elvis Ann entertained them with her usual tricks. Being the center of attention makes her so happy. :-)
The next morning we headed for Georgetown, SC. We stayed two nights at a marina on the waterfront. Let's just say that the dockmaster will not be voted "Mr. Congeniality" any time soon. Despite the dockmaster's disposition, we found Georgetown to be delightful. The highlight of our visit was a trolley tour given by a long-time resident. My southern history was a bit lacking. I never realized the level of religious tolerance South Carolina had during the 1700s and 1800s. People who were persecuted elsewhere settled in Georgetown and around South Carolina. For instance, many Jewish people found a happy home in Georgetown. I enjoyed seeing the historic homes and the quaint historic downtown area. Tree-lined streets, a clock tower, and lots of flowers make Georgetown charming. I felt as if I'd stepped into a Jan Karon novel.
Did I mention Confederate Roses in my last blog entry? We are fortunate to be here while those bushes are blooming. The leaves are large and green, and large pink blossoms cover the bushes like a hydrangea bush in the NC summer. We saw many of these bushes in bloom in the ICW and in Georgetown.
From Georgetown we moved 67 miles to Charleston Harbor. We followed John and Honey in Hielan Lass. We had seen them on our way to Wrightsville Beach, and then we saw each other again at the same marina in Georgetown. They are from NJ and are also heading to Marathon, FL. John and I enjoyed traveling the waterway with them.
Sunday, October 26, 2008
Southport to Myrtle Beach
After anchoring in Swansboro and Wrightsville Beach, John, Elvis Ann and I traveled to Southport where we stayed at the marina for two nights. Southport, NC is a quaint historic town. We walked the waterfront and streets of historic homes before visiting the Maritime Museum and window shopping in the boutique stores. My favorite shop was called Good Ship Lollipop. You would be proud of me. I didn’t buy a thing. However, if we stop in Southport on our return north in the spring, there may be a few things I can’t live without – or rather that my soon-to-be-born niece/nephew can’t live without.
John and I are easing into the cruising lifestyle. Rather than going back to the boat, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Mr. P’s Bistro on Howe Street. I didn’t anticipate eating Salmon Oscar while cruising. We cleaned our plates like we were returning POWs.
Today we navigated the ICW to Myrtle Beach. Earlier in the week, our leg from Swansboro to Wrightsville Beach had multiple bridges that only opened on the hour or on the hour and half-hour. We planned our speed accordingly so we did not have to wait long for any bridges. Today’s leg had only one bridge that opened on a schedule. The Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge opens only on the hour. At 11:36AM we noticed the time and that we had 24 minutes to go just over three miles if we wanted to make the noon opening. If we didn’t go full throttle we would miss the opening by about 10 minutes and have to circle around for another 50 minutes. John revved up the engine from 2,200 rpm to 3,500 rpm. Our speed increased from 5 knots to 8.2+ knots. I moved the chart marker closer to the bridge as we sped past the channel markers. At 11:50AM I called the bridge tender on the radio, told him we were at channel marker 99, and requested transit through during the noon opening. The bridge is just past marker 105. Bridge tenders can open within 10 minutes on either side of their scheduled opening, however, typically that happens when no one is waiting. The bridge tender informed me he would open on schedule and do his best to get us through if we kept pressing. The minutes ticked by, the markers passed by, John drove hard, my adrenaline flowed. If we did not make the opening, waiting an hour would not have been a big deal. We just hated to miss the opening by such a small margin. As we flew around the corner toward the bridge, we were the entertainment for the other boats waiting for the opening. Our friends in Serenity who we met in Southport called us on the radio to tell us we looked like a battleship planning down the river. At 12:05PM, Island Chariot was the last vessel through the Sunset Island Pontoon Bridge.
John and I are easing into the cruising lifestyle. Rather than going back to the boat, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at Mr. P’s Bistro on Howe Street. I didn’t anticipate eating Salmon Oscar while cruising. We cleaned our plates like we were returning POWs.
Today we navigated the ICW to Myrtle Beach. Earlier in the week, our leg from Swansboro to Wrightsville Beach had multiple bridges that only opened on the hour or on the hour and half-hour. We planned our speed accordingly so we did not have to wait long for any bridges. Today’s leg had only one bridge that opened on a schedule. The Sunset Beach Pontoon Bridge opens only on the hour. At 11:36AM we noticed the time and that we had 24 minutes to go just over three miles if we wanted to make the noon opening. If we didn’t go full throttle we would miss the opening by about 10 minutes and have to circle around for another 50 minutes. John revved up the engine from 2,200 rpm to 3,500 rpm. Our speed increased from 5 knots to 8.2+ knots. I moved the chart marker closer to the bridge as we sped past the channel markers. At 11:50AM I called the bridge tender on the radio, told him we were at channel marker 99, and requested transit through during the noon opening. The bridge is just past marker 105. Bridge tenders can open within 10 minutes on either side of their scheduled opening, however, typically that happens when no one is waiting. The bridge tender informed me he would open on schedule and do his best to get us through if we kept pressing. The minutes ticked by, the markers passed by, John drove hard, my adrenaline flowed. If we did not make the opening, waiting an hour would not have been a big deal. We just hated to miss the opening by such a small margin. As we flew around the corner toward the bridge, we were the entertainment for the other boats waiting for the opening. Our friends in Serenity who we met in Southport called us on the radio to tell us we looked like a battleship planning down the river. At 12:05PM, Island Chariot was the last vessel through the Sunset Island Pontoon Bridge.
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Oriental, NC to Swansboro, NC
Elvis Ann, John and I departed our dock in Oriental, NC as planned on Monday, October 20. Although we were not ready to set sail until the afternoon, we left anyway and anchored for the night not far from home in Cedar Creek. For some reason it was important to us to leave on the day we planned to leave.
From here on out, the plans can change. In fact, those of you who knew our “Plan A” could tell by the title of this blog entry that we are on to “Plan B”. Originally, we were going to Beaufort on day one, Cape Lookout early on day two, and then on the outside to Wrightsville Beach on day three.
We decided to take the “business route” through Beaufort on the way out the Beaufort Inlet – our first time. However, our entry into the Beaufort channel was delayed by a 15-minute “discussion” about which side of the Chariot should pass by the channel dividing marker. John wanted to pass to the right in the direction of the Morehead City channel. I was armed with the chart and simple knowledge of what a red and green marker means. I was determined to prevent John from running the boat aground (again – but not on this trip yet!). John insisted “right!”. I argued “left!”. The boat drifted until John caved in and we uneventfully passed the marker down the starboard (correct) side of the Chariot. John has not admitted he was wrong, however, he now refers to me as the “Queen of Nav”.
Having passed through the Beaufort waterfront, we went through the Beaufort Inlet toward Cape Lookout early on Tuesday afternoon. Most people go in the morning before the sea gets rough. About half way to Cape Lookout we decided to go back to Beaufort for the night. Sometimes you’ve got to know when to say when. The seas were quite rough with about six foot waves. Elvis, John and the Chariot held up well. The television and I were another story. The thought of sailing 12 hours the next day in seas predicted to be even rougher did not appeal to me. Waves breaking across the bow and washing up on the dodger are not what I’m looking for in our first week out. We have the rest of the six months for that kind of fun! I began to understand how Gilligan felt when his “tiny ship was tossed”.
While the ocean was having its way with us, we passed a pod of dolphins and a huge sea turtle. Amazing! Beautiful – almost enough to make me muster the courage to go offshore on Wednesday, but not quite. Dolphin have been swimming and leaping beside us in the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), too. They frolic and play like they haven’t a care. John and I look forward to learning to play like those dolphins while we’re away!
Back inside the Beaufort Inlet, we tied up at the Beaufort town docks. The interesting thing about pulling into a marina is that at least two guys who work at the marina are almost always standing by to help. In this case, three guys from the marina were standing by waving us into our slip for the night. John had already briefed me on how he wanted me to work the lines, which cleats to catch – the usual drill. Each guy on the dock had a different idea, and each shouted to me to throw them a line. Being a good first mate, I listened to the captain and all went well. Last summer when we pulled into the marina at Bald Head Island, I made the mistake of throwing lines to the three marina guys on the dock when they shouted to me instead of going with John’s plan. Suffice it to say, each guy had his own plan, and we were the 4PM entertainment for people on the island. Lesson learned!
This was our first time in Beaufort by boat. For years, Beaufort has been one of our favorite places to spend a day. We enjoy the Buffalo Shrimp at the Dockside Restaurant, window shopping, and looking at boats in the harbor. What fun to arrive by water and dock in the midst of yachts that dwarf the Chariot.
Today enjoyed a leisurely morning, and then departed for Swansboro. Last summer when we were on the ICW between Morehead City and Swansboro, it was like the boating equivalent of driving on the 405 freeway in Los Angeles. Today, it was the boating equivalent of driving in Oriental early on a Saturday morning – we were nearly all alone! Dolphin accompanied us as we passed Bogue field where John the Marine spent many nights doing field carrier landing practice in harrier jets.
Elvis Ann has settled in to the cruising lifestyle. She is still a bit freaked out by all of the various boat noises. Otherwise, she is her normal busy self. And, yet all our teak is intact!
From here on out, the plans can change. In fact, those of you who knew our “Plan A” could tell by the title of this blog entry that we are on to “Plan B”. Originally, we were going to Beaufort on day one, Cape Lookout early on day two, and then on the outside to Wrightsville Beach on day three.
We decided to take the “business route” through Beaufort on the way out the Beaufort Inlet – our first time. However, our entry into the Beaufort channel was delayed by a 15-minute “discussion” about which side of the Chariot should pass by the channel dividing marker. John wanted to pass to the right in the direction of the Morehead City channel. I was armed with the chart and simple knowledge of what a red and green marker means. I was determined to prevent John from running the boat aground (again – but not on this trip yet!). John insisted “right!”. I argued “left!”. The boat drifted until John caved in and we uneventfully passed the marker down the starboard (correct) side of the Chariot. John has not admitted he was wrong, however, he now refers to me as the “Queen of Nav”.
Having passed through the Beaufort waterfront, we went through the Beaufort Inlet toward Cape Lookout early on Tuesday afternoon. Most people go in the morning before the sea gets rough. About half way to Cape Lookout we decided to go back to Beaufort for the night. Sometimes you’ve got to know when to say when. The seas were quite rough with about six foot waves. Elvis, John and the Chariot held up well. The television and I were another story. The thought of sailing 12 hours the next day in seas predicted to be even rougher did not appeal to me. Waves breaking across the bow and washing up on the dodger are not what I’m looking for in our first week out. We have the rest of the six months for that kind of fun! I began to understand how Gilligan felt when his “tiny ship was tossed”.
While the ocean was having its way with us, we passed a pod of dolphins and a huge sea turtle. Amazing! Beautiful – almost enough to make me muster the courage to go offshore on Wednesday, but not quite. Dolphin have been swimming and leaping beside us in the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), too. They frolic and play like they haven’t a care. John and I look forward to learning to play like those dolphins while we’re away!
Back inside the Beaufort Inlet, we tied up at the Beaufort town docks. The interesting thing about pulling into a marina is that at least two guys who work at the marina are almost always standing by to help. In this case, three guys from the marina were standing by waving us into our slip for the night. John had already briefed me on how he wanted me to work the lines, which cleats to catch – the usual drill. Each guy on the dock had a different idea, and each shouted to me to throw them a line. Being a good first mate, I listened to the captain and all went well. Last summer when we pulled into the marina at Bald Head Island, I made the mistake of throwing lines to the three marina guys on the dock when they shouted to me instead of going with John’s plan. Suffice it to say, each guy had his own plan, and we were the 4PM entertainment for people on the island. Lesson learned!
This was our first time in Beaufort by boat. For years, Beaufort has been one of our favorite places to spend a day. We enjoy the Buffalo Shrimp at the Dockside Restaurant, window shopping, and looking at boats in the harbor. What fun to arrive by water and dock in the midst of yachts that dwarf the Chariot.
Today enjoyed a leisurely morning, and then departed for Swansboro. Last summer when we were on the ICW between Morehead City and Swansboro, it was like the boating equivalent of driving on the 405 freeway in Los Angeles. Today, it was the boating equivalent of driving in Oriental early on a Saturday morning – we were nearly all alone! Dolphin accompanied us as we passed Bogue field where John the Marine spent many nights doing field carrier landing practice in harrier jets.
Elvis Ann has settled in to the cruising lifestyle. She is still a bit freaked out by all of the various boat noises. Otherwise, she is her normal busy self. And, yet all our teak is intact!
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